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A Note on Nuts

On Brand

Many climbing equipment manufacturer’s make nuts. They’re all pretty similar. I use Metolius nuts. I have these because I got ’em cheap, but if I had to buy new I would get Black Diamond or Frost (if I could find ’em). The curved shape of the Metoilus nuts tends to get stuck more offend than the simpler taper of most nuts.

On Racking

An interesting idea is to rack a mixture of large and small nuts on two biners, so if one is dropped, there is redundancy. I don’t do this, but I might if I had a really minimal rack (read: alpine).

I rack RPs on one biner and large nuts on another. This is the quickest way to get to the right gear. I don’t use oval carabiners because the symmetry makes it harder to tell which side opens, and ovals are heavy and bulky.

If I’m using a gear sling, I usually still keep nuts on my harness. This gives quick access, and reduces overall bulk.


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