Memorial Day weekend was a perfect time to get out of town and head to Shelf Road. Evidently it was a good decision because it rained in Boulder five days straight. The forecast for the entire Front Range and even out to Moab was for rain, But our gamble proved lucky.
We did get rock blocked a bit on the first day when we only got a few routes in before the storms came. We went back to camp early and the rolling thunder faded into distant whispers. After several requisite Jon Cannon jokes, we decided that a nice hike followed by a night ascent of the ever popular Crynoid Corner was in order.
Emily searching for the next stair in the dark.
The next day brought marshmallow clouds accompanied by a smiley face sun and we took advantage, putting up a candyland of routes. Highlights included The Raven, Funkdamental and Working Man, a 5.12 that has recently become more difficult with the crux hold breaking less than a month ago. I wish I would have known that before hopping on it! As it was, the crux was a unique sequence involving a giant pocket Rush Limbaugh could fit his head into and awful hands. I stuck the move after about 5 unsuccessful attempts. The rest of the line was tough, continuous and fun with a few cheek-spreading stances.
Tommy, who believes conditioner is better than shampoo, leading Funkdamental.
Ron working hard on the crux of Working Man
Later, Tommy and I ventured off to climb Gravitations, a great line up a continuous ridge and some spicy bolt spacing.
The day ended on the Gem Wall where Kate once again showed why her middle name is superultrabadass, leading Stress Rehearsal.
Kate, who is rumored to prefer shampoo, leading Stress Rehearsal
On Monday we picked up where we left off. The last route of the trip, The Hurricane, was an incredible climb – eleven bolts up a fantastic blank face. Every hold on the route was essential and with the exception of a sloping ridge, there was no place to gain a rest. I clipped all eleven bolts clean and peeled on the difficult move to the anchor. I had the last hold in my hand just long enough to pause momentarily before the anchor raced away from me. I think those camping at Sand Gulch heard me yell on my way down. Eli, Kris, Doug, Andrew, Chris and others looking for a quality tough line – this is a must do.
Finally, today a friend and I got out to New Hipster Rock in Clear Creek after work. After feeling very strong at Shelf, the overhanging lines of New Hipster were a humbling experience. It’s always funny how climbing seems to regulate confidence. A great day can make you feel like you’re on the rise, while a bad day can make you feel like this guy.
(Thanks to Ron and Lizz for photos.)
Sounds like a great trip! How many people ended up going? I cant wait to get back to the states and start flailing around on 5.7s like a newbie, haha, should be fun.
Cool man. Last fall I got out to New Hipster with one of the main developers of that area (and the front range), Richard Wright. It was cool checking the new lines with the guy who set ‘em up.
Working man is cool. I remember those crimps from a few years ago. I never got it clean, it’d be cool to go back to it.
E
Justin, can’t wait to gear up and get some climbing in with you when you’re back! Something tells me that you’ll get your touch back quick.