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Crack

No, this is not a post warning kids about the dangers of drugs. Its a warning of a far more dangerous and addictive drug, crack climbing. I know many of you out there have not tried crack and you are the lucky ones because once you start crack you can’t stop. Here in Red Rocks I was lucky to get my fix and climb an unusual climb for the area called The Fox.

This Indian Creek style crack is just the thing to get some practice in before a weekend at the creek. It starts off at about .5 size in a broken crack system up to the business. A lay back crack for 3 or 4 moves at .75 size bring you to the first “almost” good jam. Plug a #1 then a #2 where you get a good rest. After this the crack just keeps getting wider for 30 feet to about #3 size. The first crux comes about 60 feet off the deck when you come to a short dog leg feature where you have to reach around a small roof and get a #4 fist jam.

The fun ensues when you can get your hip in and place you last #5 piece till the end of the route another 50 feet up. This off-width section is cool because you have to wiggle your way up with you one hip/leg stuck in the crack and the other flailing on the outside for anything that might remotely be considered a “good” foot. With enough wiggling you get a prize, JUGS!!

After this is the before mentioned 60 feet of slab/too wide for anything crack with no pro. It gets really fun at this point because your super spent from trashing up this climb and you really don’t want to fall 50+ feet past your last piece. I love this route and still need to get up it without taking a rest in the middle. One day it will fall, I promise…

Eli Powell - Damn, that route looks sweet! We'll have to climb it again next time I'm out there.August 5, 2009 – 7:19 pm

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