Inspired by Andrew’s recent post about crack climbing, Ryan and I took a trip to Lumpy Ridge on Saturday in search of granite splitters. We found exactly what we were looking for at The Book, a towering crag in the middle of Lumpy’s three-mile stretch of huge granite domes, pinnacles, fins and spires.
We decided to test our luck on the long splitter-crack, Femp. After a good warm-up splitter-crack first pitch arriving at a quality belay ledge, the only thing one can see is an endless crack bordered by smooth, sloping granite. Hand jams for 40 feet lead to the first crux as the crack tappers to nothing and picks up again a few feet left. The transition is difficult and a little spicy because of the questionable piton and small gear that must be placed in a hurry. The crack again opens to hands and fists and continues for another 100 feet until another crux consisting of a small crimp and fingertip lieback, arrives unexpectedly. The crack ate nearly an entire double rack and I was still runout, especially at the top.
(Left) Ryan with his arms buried in the never ending splitter
(Right) The view of Estes valley from the top of the second pitch
The fun isn’t over after the massive second pitch. Good stemming up a dihedral highlights the third pitch and the “cave exit” leads to the summit.
(Left) Me working the “cave” on the fourth and final pitch
We ended the trip by climbing the first pitch of Loose Ends. The line takes nothing bigger than a .5, but actually protects very well if you trust small gear (quality lead, Ryan).
Lumpy seems to be full of great climbing and beautiful scenery. If the weather holds I’d love to get back there another time or two very soon.
Great to see a post on Lumpy, Adam. Sounds like you guys had an outstanding day. I deeply miss that place. To me it embodies many aspects of a perfect climbing experience. Beautiful setting (immediate and surrounding), quality rock and routes, nice approaches (not too long, not too short), interesting history, fun local town, etc. etc. I could go on and on about that place.
Now that it's been stirred up in my mind again, I have a eagerness to get back.
Yo Adam,
I heard you had a close call on Sunday- Glad you're okay. Talk to you soon.
E
Yeah, I took a good 20 foot tumble after being knocked over by a big rock. It was attached to the main granite structure by nothing but dirt and moss. The rock may have landed on my left hand – it remains quite swollen and sore. Other than that I'm just cut and bruised up a bit. I was very unlucky and very lucky at the same time. That's what I get for bushwacking.