Comments on: How to keep Dahlia off the deck: A technical review of belaying techniques

By: Adam

Adam — Wed, 22 Jun 2011 22:39:10 +0000

Here’s an interesting video that shows a variation of a ground runner. They use a gri gri anchored to a rock as a belay point. If the climber peels, one (of the two) belayers can run backward and take in slack without worrying about being pulled back into the rock. Not to mention that this looks like an amazing (and scaaary) climb.

By: Paul Krums

Paul Krums — Fri, 05 Nov 2010 03:41:20 +0000

Imagine attaching a pulley to the ground-runner and a pulley to the belayer’s harness, creating a 3-to-1 system so that the belayer takes in rope 3 times the distance he runs. This pulley system would increase the possible climber height/pro height ratio to unheard of levels.

By: William J Oviatt

William J Oviatt — Thu, 29 Apr 2010 04:49:01 +0000

I love the detailed explanation for those physical minds. Had this not been accomplished, I wouldn’t really have been able to predict the whip distance. Baby D bout pulled me straight out of my boots when she took a 50 ft run on me leading a 5.15a in her flip flops. Had the shoes not thrown her off she’d have flashed it quite easily. Adam, thank you for the wisdom…

By: E.F.R.

E.F.R. — Tue, 23 Feb 2010 04:29:26 +0000

I was so busy being a dork, I forgot to tell you how cool the video is. I hope you do more creative work like this, Adam. Awesome!

By: Jon

Jon — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 20:14:04 +0000

Equations make Jon’s head hurt. JON SMASH!

By: lizzil

lizzil — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 20:50:45 +0000

Being an Oviatt, this is no surprise that just a few weeks out of the womb Dahlia is already sending 5.13x. And she still looks like the sweetest baby ever!