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	<title>Comments on: Circuit Training for Climbing</title>
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		<title>By: Adam</title>
		<link>http://climbinghouse.com/2010/03/circuit-training-for-climbing.html/comment-page-1#comment-847</link>
		<dc:creator>Adam</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Mar 2010 16:44:58 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Good post, Eli.  Including a form to help keep track of the workout is a great idea.  I&#039;m probably like most others when I go to the weight room and have limited knowledge of what to do.

However, you didn&#039;t include a few routines that I love.  

1. One arm pinkie pullups - I can do 20+ of these when using the deep mono pockets on the hangboard but am struggling to get to 10 when using the micro crimp feature.

2. Dead hang pinkie curls - this is when I hang from my pinkie on the sloper  and while keeping my arm straight curl my pinkie.  This is a fantastic exercise because as the finger is curled you&#039;re forced to hang on with less and less surface area contact.

Both of these first two can be done with any digit.  Beginners may want to start with the middle finger.

3.The nail - For a great core workout this can&#039;t be beat.  This can also be done at home.  Novices will need a board with a nail through it.  More advanced participants will only need the nail.  Simply flex your abs and lay your center of gravity on the nail.  Balance with all points off the ground until you get tired.  I recommend bringing a magazine open to a lengthy article to put under your nose as this exercise can be time consuming.

Just my two cents.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Good post, Eli.  Including a form to help keep track of the workout is a great idea.  I&#8217;m probably like most others when I go to the weight room and have limited knowledge of what to do.</p>
<p>However, you didn&#8217;t include a few routines that I love.  </p>
<p>1. One arm pinkie pullups &#8211; I can do 20+ of these when using the deep mono pockets on the hangboard but am struggling to get to 10 when using the micro crimp feature.</p>
<p>2. Dead hang pinkie curls &#8211; this is when I hang from my pinkie on the sloper  and while keeping my arm straight curl my pinkie.  This is a fantastic exercise because as the finger is curled you&#8217;re forced to hang on with less and less surface area contact.</p>
<p>Both of these first two can be done with any digit.  Beginners may want to start with the middle finger.</p>
<p>3.The nail &#8211; For a great core workout this can&#8217;t be beat.  This can also be done at home.  Novices will need a board with a nail through it.  More advanced participants will only need the nail.  Simply flex your abs and lay your center of gravity on the nail.  Balance with all points off the ground until you get tired.  I recommend bringing a magazine open to a lengthy article to put under your nose as this exercise can be time consuming.</p>
<p>Just my two cents.</p>
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