The summer season is winding down in Moab, Labor Day is fast approaching and all the Boulder kids just finished the reality tour that is their first week of classes – last weekend was the perfect time to visit Moab.
Tyler onsighting Grateful He's Dead (5.11a - Mill Creek)
The eventful weekend included hiking, climbing, a trip to Castleton and more climbing.
Lizz strolling to the Double O arches in the afternoon sun
Lizz and I hiked the Double O arches trail and took the time to visit the Navajo, Partition, Tunnel, Landscape and Pine Tree arches as well. Many of these arches are accessed by short trails that branch off of the main Double O arch trail. Some, such as Navajo and Partition, probably only get a tenth of the traffic to Double O, but are well worth it.
Partition Arch
We had a sliver of light left after hiking and completed a 45-minute car-to-car ascent of Lizz’s first desert tower, Owl Rock, in the setting sun.
Upper Double O arch
Andrew and I woke at 4:30 the next morning and took four new friends up to Castleton. The four all graduated from West Point and were out to celebrate Mac’s bachelor party. If you ask me, the blood, sweat, tears, fears and excitement of Moab is about the best bachelor party one could have.
From Left to Right: Mal, J.B., Mac and Todd waiting out the weather. These guys are awesome.
We were at the base of Castleton at 7:30 but got delayed for an hour due to some very nasty weather. Somehow we escaped with only light rain, but for a while it looked like a monsoon was inevitable. La Sal Mountains and the Colorado River were getting nailed as was most of Castle Valley. We got lucky.
This is not the weather you want to see at the base of Castleton
Though we didn’t summit, we climbed the spectacular and long first pitch of the North Chimney. J.B. and Mal took a beating, leaving blood and soul on the rock, but they fought back and made it. The first pitch requires a good deal of technique intensive movement, including stems, jams and smearing and is definitely challenging for a beginner climber.
Each of the four has an amazing story – J.B. just got back from his 4th tour of duty in Iraq – and it was an honor to spend the day with them. Congratulations to Mac on his upcoming wedding.
We finished out the day with some Wall Street shenanigans.
Tyler fighting the pump on Frogs of a Feather (5.10c)
Tyler led Frogs of a Feather, struggling to get it clean. The gear is solid, but tough to place because most of the route forces a lieback. He kept his head and protected the route well even while working against fading strength. It was fun to watch. I led an unknown, dicey 120-foot slab to the left of Shoot Up or Shut Up with a very difficult bouldering problem between the first and second bolts. It’s been too long since I’ve been on a desperate desert sandstone slab.
Sunday we enjoyed the day at Mill Creek, one of my favorite places.
Mill Creek was beautiful as always
I led Techno Christ (5.12+) at the Wicked Crag. I had to pull through the razor blades on this line on top rope a few years ago. This time I got the moves clean with a few falls trying to dial the beta. After the crux, one still has 60 feet of pumpy climbing ahead with no rest, another 5.11 crux and no move easier than 5.10. I wish I had more time to work the line – it would be a proud send!
The view from accross the log. Tyler on Greatful He's Dead
We finished on Banditos (5.11). Tyler nearly onsighted the line, succumbing to the pump after two days of climbing. He’s climbing strong after a summer in Boulder.
We’ll be back in Moab for the half-marathon in October.
Nice trip report.
Fantastic pictures, but I fear for your lives! There’s nothing worth a fatal or crippling fall!!! BE CAREFUL!!!!! GmaS.
Well, I’ll be careful, but I can’t speak for Tyler. That guy is crazy! He was taking 60 footers on a beer bottle wedged into The Grand Course. Good thing it was a PBR. Sturdy.
I figure that as long as a fall only carries a less than 50% chance of death, then I’m safe, and I’ll go for it. That’s just statistics working in your favor.
That was a fun trip.
I only wish I didn’t feel so crummy at Mill Creek. It is such a wonderful place! Arches National Park is amazing. Anyone and everyone should go there to see the wonder and magnificence of nature.
Adam,
Thank you for your time and patience on Castleton. Sorry about the weather and that I missed you. Perhaps October will work. We can climb and break some stuff.
Great pictures. We’ll have to visit Moab with you guys sometime after I retire. Longs Peak, too. I agree with cousin Zach, be careful!