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Gear Review: 5-10 Copperheads

To say that 5-10 has been expanding their shoe line, or for that matter their product line, in the past few years would be a gross understatement. Just this season they have released nearly ten new styles of climbing shoe, not to mention expanding into freeride, slacklining, BASE, BMX, and sky-diving to name a few. Yes, the musk of Charles Cole’s entrepreneurial spirit is heavily laden in the Redlands R&D shop.
 
With respect to the climbing shoe division, entirely new designs have been unveiled, but developments have seemed to center on specializing 5-10’s established shoe line. The result is the maturation of multiple 5-10 classics like the undeniable powerhouse and gold-standard of climbing shoes, the Anasazi Velcro. Other styles being flattered with imitation, err spin-offs, are the Dragons and the Mocasyms.  I’ve been on a search for the past year or so to find a suitable equivalent to act as a stand-in while having maintenance performed on my Anasazis. This, admittedly, has been an erratic and therefore fruitless search until recently. Thanks to a fortuitous sale I stumbled upon, I was able to convince myself to buy yet another pair of climbing shoes, officially making me the proud owner of more climbing shoes than any other type of shoe in my closet. The newest acquisition was the 5-10 Copperheads.

 

Described by 5-10 as an ideal performance trad climbing shoe, the Copperheads can be classified best as falling somewhere in the triad of Anasazi Velcro, Mocasym, and Lace-up. It is a hybrid slipper, fitting similar to the Mocs, with a lace on the inside that allows you to tighten the fit for those harder pitches. The shoe is unlined and features a little extra rand on the upper toe box in an attempt to add security while toe jamming. Below is a breakdown of my evaluation of the shoe after a few sessions, based on fit and performance. 

Fit

After preliminary research, I assumed the shoe would fit about the same as my Anasazi velcros, so I order them a half size smaller than my street shoe. This seems to be the ideal size for comfort, but because they are unlined, they tend to stretch the further you get into your climbing day. Moreover, the toe box feels slightly larger than the Anasazis. And finally, when it comes to comfort shoes, 5-10 generally fits a wider foot, and this shoe is no exception. This combination, unfortunately, compromises some edging ability. That being said, I could see going down another half size to help regain some of that performance. 

A side view showing the Copperhead's lacing system

 

One unique feature of this shoe is an off-center lace that allows you to tighten the fit for some of those harder pitches. While I found it to be helpful, it wasn’t quite the boost I was hoping for. The lace begins just above the toe box and ends at the top of your foot, which helps to tighten the shoe through the arch of your foot and facilitates some power transfer to the toes. However, it would have been nice to have the lace go down just a little closer to the toes to help take in that extra space in the toe box and to avoid the roll-over around your big toe when edging, and come up the foot more to surround the entire arch. 

Performance

I touched on this a little previously, but in terms of edging, the Copperheads do very well initially, however, tend to stretch throughout the day. Also the construction of the shoe doesn’t seem to transfer the power as efficiently to your big toe, suggesting that comfort was a bigger factor in the design of this shoe than performance. The heel cup is surprisingly stable and with the additional security of the laces, heel hooking is not a concern.   After careful examination, you’ll notice that there is significantly more rubber on these shoes compared to other 5-10 models. Obviously, this ancillary feature is intended to aid in the realm of crack climbing. With the limited amount of toe jamming I’ve done in the shoes, that extra layer of rubber not only helped me stick better, but served as a nice additional bit of padding for my dainty feet. And when you shed the harness to grab the bouldering pad, you get the bonus of some toe-hooking rubber. 

The additional toe rubber

 

To summarize, the Copperhead will serve well as an all-day trad shoe. While the shoe doesn’t perform as well as some of the other models that 5-10 offers, it will do just fine when climbing about a grade below your upper threshold and the benefits you receive in the comfort arena provide a nice balance. The laces are a helpful addition, but weren’t as effective as I was hoping. However, the additional rubber around the toes will be a god-send when jamming your way up unforgiving Yosemite splitters. The Copperheads retail for $130.00, suggesting to me that 5-10 was aiming for a small step down from Anasazi. In my opinion, the hit somewhere just above Mocasym. So to be honest, I’d have a tough time convincing myself to buy them at full price, but then again I’m a cheap ass. This fact aside, however, they’re still a good pair of shoes. For me, one of the tests of whether or not I’ve found a keeper is, when these guys blow out, would I get them resoled? For me that answer is “yes.”

Andrew - I like the first picture with all your gear in the background! I have always loved 5-10 shoes, mainly because they fit my feet the best. They are a good balance between preformance and comfort espeically on long climbs. Nice post Chris!February 11, 2011 – 12:40 pm

Doug - I just bought the Anasazi Arrowheads to be my bouldering/steep sport shoe. As with most of the Anasazi models I found the heel to be baggy. I haven’t tried them on the wall yet so we’ll see how the front of the shoe performs.February 12, 2011 – 8:42 am

Adam - Thanks for the review, Chris. It’s funny, I’ve used many different varieties of shoes over the years, mainly because I find ridiculous deals at gear swaps etc. I have a hard time dropping $150+ on a pair of shoes.

I’ve always loved the comfort, performance and lifetime of the Murias.

Though I have had good luck with the Testerosas, I found their heels to be very loose, to the point that heel hooking is significantly affected. Considering how well the shoe fits the rest of my foot I think that’s strange.February 12, 2011 – 10:56 am

Patrick - 5.10 classifies the Copperheads in the Microns category, where they appear to be the least aggressive shoe of the bunch. To me the Copperheads really look like lace-embellished Moccasyms, and as such, I’d bet they would be good for long days.February 12, 2011 – 12:24 pm

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