Climbing House » Where Climbers Live

Masthead header

Lower Chaos

The Rocky Mountain bouldering season is in full swing and with Boulder still baking we’d be crazy not to join in the fun. Following up our trip last weekend to Upper Chaos, this time we decided to visit the Lower Chaos boulders.

The photos above (D-Rock) show a crux move on Skipper G (V8) at Upper Chaos.

Unlike our day at Upper Chaos devoted almost entirely to Skipper D (V8), at Lower we visited a number of problems, the highlight being Tommy’s Arete (V7).

Osirus sending Tommy's Arete (V7)

We started on the “warmup” boulder that happened to have an interesting looking V7 called Potato Chip. After seeing Ian work through much of the problem on his first go, I was happy to flash the problem, a first at the grade.

D-Rock working Potato Chip (V7)

We then moved on to the Automator boulder, home to several long, intimidating lines, including Autobot (V5).

D-Rock on the lengthy Autobot (V5)

The main event was Tommy’s Arete (FA: Tommy Caldwell). The spectacular line was one of the first problems established at Lower Chaos and climbs out a severely overhanging arete. Everyone seems to have different beta, but everyone I saw resorted to head-high heel hooks to get through cruxes.

Osirus on Tommy's Arete

Because of the extremely powerful nature and length of Tommy’s Arete, I felt like I would only have a handful of good attempts before losing too much strength and endurance. Fortunately, with the aid of beta provided by the locals, I sent the problem before diminishing returns set in.

Check out a video of Ian sending Potato Chip and working Tommy’s Arete.

We finished up the day bouldering the namesake route on the Revenge boulder. The V6 is an exercise in body tension, slaps and lock offs. Definitely recommended. It’s safe to say the Chaos areas are some of the most beautiful I have ever visited for climbing.

Lake Haiyaha and the Upper Chaos boulders viewed from Lower Chaos

Meanwhile in the world of roped climbing, Ian sent Ultrasaurus (5.13a) last week in the fading light after work. He made it look easy. Nice work, Ian.

kris - Looks amazing! Beautiful environment and rock. I’d love to make it up there some summer.August 8, 2011 – 7:02 pm

Tyler - Awesome post, the video of Ian crushing should be inspiration to us all. Nice work on the boulders, Adam, and nice work on Ultrasaurus, Ian!August 8, 2011 – 7:46 pm

Back to Top Contact Me Share on Facebook Tweet this Post Email to a Friend
T a l k
N e i g h b o r s
S e a r c h