An Eldo Winter

December 22nd is the Winter Solstice. During these short days in Eldo, the sun barely peaks above the Bastille, then creeps westward along the canyon rim in a shallow arch. For a few golden hours, warmth soaks into the towering striped maroon and red walls and gives climbers respite from gym hibernation.

Ian taking a run on the perfect Center Route (5.11a)

Much of the Redgarden and Rincon walls as well as the West Ridge are climbable and the allure of crisp rock draws out the sleepy faithful like wide-eyed teenagers to a square dance.

The Rincon Wall basking in December sun

We’ve enjoyed several days lately in Eldo trudging through the snow-covered trails to soak up slivers of sun. In the dry Colorado air, sun and wind dictate climbablility. If a route is in the sun and the air is still, the climbing can be pleasant down to the lower 30s. On the other hand, a 55 degree day may be miserable and cold if thick clouds and high winds dominate.

Andrew and Ian on the way to the Rincon Wall

Most of our December Eldo adventures have involved single pitch lines. We had a great time repeating Center Route, one of the best single pitch 5.11s in the area. Center Route takes a variety of perfect gear, and has a fantastic roof followed by a confusing crux and more pumpy climbing to the anchors. Center Route was one of the first Eldo 5.11s I got clean and I always love taking another spin. Immediately to the left of Center Route is The Evictor (5.12c R). Like most who try their luck on The Evictor, Ian has been boiling it down on top rope. Alex Honnold has the only known onsight. Good gear can be placed, but for most mortals, knowing the pieces and moves by heart is a requirement for any chance at sending. To the right of Center Route is Camouflage (5.12b), an impossible slab I’ve tried a couple times. Camouflage is one of the hardest climbs I’ve ever done at any grade. I’ve pulled all the moves, but it would take several additional sessions and one hell of a great climb to link them all together. Both these lines are desperate and the cool December air helps immensely.

Rocky Mountain snowmelt

Along with the Rincon area, we had a blast going back to Back in Black (5.11d). It is an absolute must to climb the slippery varnished line in cool, crisp weather. Ian got the it clean and I was close. I definitely won’t mind returning to the dicey “sport” climb for another go. Back in Black is truly one of Eldo’s best thin face climbs. That day, in celebration of Tommy’s 30th birthday, we also took trips up a number of very spicy pitches, Blacktalk (5.10b), Blackwalk (5.10c R), p1 of Temporary like Achilles (5.10b R), Dangerous Acquaintances (5.11d TR) and p1 of Evangeline (5.11b). Each of these lines was a repeat for me, but it made for a perfect day.

Snow-covered talus

Because of the very short days, with even shorter windows for climbing, multipitch routes are usually left untouched. But Tyler and I decided to take the plunge and link Three Old Farts Young At Heart (5.10d) to Alice in Bucketland (5.8). Three Old Farts starts near the Yellow Spur and accesses the Upper Ramp of the Redgarden Wall. Alice in Bucketland begins at the Upper Ramp and tops out the Redgarden Wall at the Ruper Saddle. Both lines are usually done in three pitches, but with a 70 meter rope and some sparse gear placements, we condensed each to two pitches for a 4-star, 4-pitch jaunt to the summit of the Redgarden Wall.

Tyler leading pitch 2 of Alice In Bucketland (5.8)

In the Middle of Alice in Bucketland, we saw a chopper fly into the heart of the canyon. Shortly thereafter, the road was closed and cars and ambulances awaited a rescue.

A rescue as viewed from the top of the Redgarden Wall

From our perch in the Ruper Saddle, we could see everything unfold. Later we found out that a climber rappelled off the end of the rope and fell 30 feet. He’s lucky he didn’t die. Be careful.

This year I feel especially lucky to have gotten outside for several great December days in Eldo.