The more I climb, the more I find myself using my thumbs. The first thumb technique most climbers learn is the crimp. By tossing the thumb over the index fingernail, the climber can enhance a small hold and stabilize pulling movement. But beyond that, a thumb is a fat, useless piece of flesh, like a bastard step uncle.
This thought prompted me to send a piece to Climbing Magazine on the ways in which the thumbs can be put to work for your send. You can read the full piece on Climbing’s website here. Keep reading to see the awesome illustration by Jamie Givens that accompanied the article.
If you haven’t checked out this full issue of Climbing, you missed the most impressive offwidth I’ve ever seen (cover). The impossibly long roof splitter is likely the hardest wide crack climb in the world. The photos of this new route, “Century Crack” (F.A. Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall) simultaneously make me inspired, amazed and want to throw up.
Thanks to Jeff Achey and Jamie Givens for excellent editing and cool artwork.