American climbing is as vast and varied as our people and cultures. From Joshua Tree to Red River Gorge to The Gunks and everywhere in between, we are lucky to have so much at our fingertips. But through the history of American climbing, two places stand tallest – Yosemite and Eldorado Canyon.

Tyler leading Pitch 2 of The Wisdom, one of Eldo's many heady 5.11 testpieces

For the last three years, I’ve largely devoted my climbing to Eldo’s beautiful maroon sandstone. Steve Levin’s recent guidebook documents over 1,100 routes. Many, if not the majority, of these lines are rarely-repeated historical notes. But scores of Eldo’s climbs are true classics and several hundred amazing routes await those with the desire to explore and the temerity to face the “old school” standards.

Though numerous excellent moderates and lines up to 5.14 are available, Eldo is the land of 5.11. If you can muster the craft and courage to lead 5.11 on devious gear and bewildering rock, Eldo will reward you with the best tasting warm sunset PBR that’s ever graced your tongue.

Whether vague or specific, setting goals has always helped me stay motivated and excited to keep getting out for great climbing. Last year, two goals became apparent for my Eldo adventures. First, I wanted to either redpoint or onsight at least 50 Eldo 5.11s, on lead. Second, I wanted to climb at least 200 Eldo routes of any grade. In October, I ticked off Eldo 5.11 number 50. Unfortunately, I came up just short of the 200 route mark with 191.

Though every climb and every day climbing holds great potential and great value, some climbs are better than others. I’ve put together a few lists that you might find useful if you’re looking to sample Eldo’s vertical terrain.
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We’re perched at our hanging belay above the iconic ceiling that defines Eldo’s roof routes. I stare up at the journey ahead, Hands In The Clouds, a spectacular and rarely done 5.12. The combination of a required aid approach pitch, sparse protection and difficulty keep virtually everyone away. Tyler gives me a handful of small cams, nuts and draws as I mention almost in passing that I’m nervous about this pitch. Only 4 bolts protect 70 feet of hard climbing and supplemental gear may not exist. Big fall potential awaits.

At work my thesis sits half done. In a few short weeks I’ll be on my way to California for a high-pressure job interview. One hundred tasks, large and small, await my attention at home in anticipation of a move. My life is a churning flux of uncertainty.

Tyler aiding out the Temporary Like Achilles Roof on the way to Hands in the Clouds (5.12a)

And as I place my foot onto the first Hands in the Clouds edge, all of that stays on the ground, a million miles away.
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December 22nd is the Winter Solstice. During these short days in Eldo, the sun barely peaks above the Bastille, then creeps westward along the canyon rim in a shallow arch. For a few golden hours, warmth soaks into the towering striped maroon and red walls and gives climbers respite from gym hibernation.

Ian taking a run on the perfect Center Route (5.11a)

Much of the Redgarden and Rincon walls as well as the West Ridge are climbable and the allure of crisp rock draws out the sleepy faithful like wide-eyed teenagers to a square dance.
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For hard, quality sport climbing in high concentration around Boulder, there is no competition for the Industrial Wall. I’ve lived here for five years, but not until the last few weeks have I visited this phenomenal area. The Industrial Wall hosts a 5.11d warm-up and a handful of 5.12s, but 5.13 and 5.14 are the [continue reading]

I reach into my chalk bag, yet again surprised at the lack of actual chalk. Not sure why though. I’ve had the same experience for the last six sessions. Anyway, after the fourth dip for each hand, I’m satisfied they’ll be dry for the next week. A quick blow across each palm and I rehearse [continue reading]