We’ve been getting settled into our lives in the Bay Area. Check back soon for accounts of our new digs. Despite the business of moving and starting a new job, Lizz and I have made it out for a few days on the rock. I recently got a new camera, with some kind help from [continue reading]

American climbing is as vast and varied as our people and cultures. From Joshua Tree to Red River Gorge to The Gunks and everywhere in between, we are lucky to have so much at our fingertips. But through the history of American climbing, two places stand tallest – Yosemite and Eldorado Canyon. For the last [continue reading]

We’re perched at our hanging belay above the iconic ceiling that defines Eldo’s roof routes. I stare up at the journey ahead, Hands In The Clouds, a spectacular and rarely done 5.12. The combination of a required aid approach pitch, sparse protection and difficulty keep virtually everyone away. Tyler gives me a handful of small [continue reading]

December 22nd is the Winter Solstice. During these short days in Eldo, the sun barely peaks above the Bastille, then creeps westward along the canyon rim in a shallow arch. For a few golden hours, warmth soaks into the towering striped maroon and red walls and gives climbers respite from gym hibernation. Much of the [continue reading]

For hard, quality sport climbing in high concentration around Boulder, there is no competition for the Industrial Wall. I’ve lived here for five years, but not until the last few weeks have I visited this phenomenal area. The Industrial Wall hosts a 5.11d warm-up and a handful of 5.12s, but 5.13 and 5.14 are the [continue reading]

I reach into my chalk bag, yet again surprised at the lack of actual chalk. Not sure why though. I’ve had the same experience for the last six sessions. Anyway, after the fourth dip for each hand, I’m satisfied they’ll be dry for the next week. A quick blow across each palm and I rehearse [continue reading]