May 182011
Fixing a Core-Shot Rope

*Editor’s Note: This post has been co-conspired by Tyler Scheer Often, after normal wear and tear, the ends of structurally sound ropes can become unraveled, or “core-shot.” If neglected, the compromised portion of the rope will grow rapidly, resulting in a shorter, less safe cord. Fortunately, you don’t need to be MacGyver to fix a [continue reading]

Feb 112011
Gear Review: 5-10 Copperheads

To say that 5-10 has been expanding their shoe line, or for that matter their product line, in the past few years would be a gross understatement. Just this season they have released nearly ten new styles of climbing shoe, not to mention expanding into freeride, slacklining, BASE, BMX, and sky-diving to name a few. [continue reading]

Time for a New Harness

Posted by Eli at 5:26 pm Climbing, Gear
Jul 112010
Time for a New Harness

My second Petzl Corax finally bit the dust.  Overall it was a great harness except: The back elastic parts were poorly designed- always slipping, wore out fast, loop that they attached to broke. The quick adjustable leg loop buckles always slip and wear out quicker than normal buckles.  Legs loops don’t need to be quickly [continue reading]

Jan 272010
Gear Review: Sentinel Stoppers

The July Moab sun eviscerated the pavement into a mirage as I pressed up the hill on my thirsty bike. Even in a packed town of only 8,000, tucked away corners and remote outskirts often go neglected. I came armed with this understanding as I approached the ramshackle building whose yellow paint was cracked into [continue reading]

Jan 222010
Carabiner Design, Evolution, & The FS Mini

I was browsing the local gear shop yesterday when I stumbled upon the Metolius FS Mini carabiner for the first time. It is shockingly small, so small in fact, that I think it has lost much of the functionality of a traditional carabiner. fs mini clipping from Climbing House on Vimeo. This realization led to [continue reading]

Nov 182009
Gear Review: Black Diamond C3s

“Yes!” I thought as I reached the jug after the crux on Center Route. I had a .5 cam 10 feet below my shoes I knew was bomber – it nicely held the 15 footer that followed my graceful ejection from the crux. However, now I needed another piece or I would be risking a [continue reading]

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