The July Moab sun eviscerated the pavement into a mirage as I pressed up the hill on my thirsty bike. Even in a packed town of only 8,000, tucked away corners and remote outskirts often go neglected. I came armed with this understanding as I approached the ramshackle building whose yellow paint was cracked into [continue reading]
I was browsing the local gear shop yesterday when I stumbled upon the Metolius FS Mini carabiner for the first time. It is shockingly small, so small in fact, that I think it has lost much of the functionality of a traditional carabiner. fs mini clipping from Climbing House on Vimeo. This realization led to [continue reading]
“Yes!” I thought as I reached the jug after the crux on Center Route. I had a .5 cam 10 feet below my shoes I knew was bomber – it nicely held the 15 footer that followed my graceful ejection from the crux. However, now I needed another piece or I would be risking a [continue reading]
Good seeing some of you at Doug’s wedding this weekend, a few photos are here. I left work at 8:00PM tonight… Yeah. But I came home to a package of 12 shiny Petzl Sprit quick draws, so I guess it’s all good. These are some of the best draws money can buy. At $22 a [continue reading]
Like the extra rubber on the Jet7’s, but don’t want to drop the coin for a pair? Or maybe you can’t break that intimate relationship between you and those pieces of toxic waste you call your rock shoes. Well fear not. Your toe hooking, crack jamming, leather –saving answer is here. FiveTen, in all in [continue reading]
On Brand Many climbing equipment manufacturer’s make nuts. They’re all pretty similar. I use Metolius nuts. I have these because I got ‘em cheap, but if I had to buy new I would get Black Diamond or Frost (if I could find ‘em). The curved shape of the Metoilus nuts tends to get stuck more [continue reading]

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