*Editor’s Note: This post has been co-conspired by Tyler Scheer Often, after normal wear and tear, the ends of structurally sound ropes can become unraveled, or “core-shot.” If neglected, the compromised portion of the rope will grow rapidly, resulting in a shorter, less safe cord. Fortunately, you don’t need to be MacGyver to fix a [continue reading]
A 60-meter rope allows setting standard topropes on climbs no longer than 30 meters. Yet many routes can be done in a single pitch between 30 – 60 meters. With some clever ropework, such climbs may not require belaying followers from the anchor and negotiating multiple rappels or dangerous walkoffs. Here is a safe and [continue reading]
One of the worst falls I’ve seen firsthand was a toprope swing on a traversing line. The climber fell into a huge pendulum, hit the rock, got spun sideways and was very lucky to escape with only cuts and bruises. Protecting a follower can be more complicated on a wandering route and the lead climber [continue reading]
If you’re like most climbers, daydreams of towering cliffs, spectacular routes and idealistic goals accompany you throughout the work day. Many online avenues indulge these musings, offering a small escape from the grind. Websites like Mountain Project, Dead Point Magazine, Climbing Narc and the little-known but award winning* blog Climbing House all provide ample fuel [continue reading]
Carl Dec is a certified rock instructor and guide centered in Moab. He owns Red River Adventures and was my boss while I raft guided in 2006. We’ve stayed in touch since then and he sent me a note after reading my entry on building anchors. In most cases, Carl uses a knot master point [continue reading]
*Editors note: This is the third and last installment of trad climbing basics. The first two entries can be found here and here. A friend recently asked me to recommend a moderate multipitch sport climb. After 5 years of climbing, I could think of only two such routes under 5.10. For many climbers, learning to [continue reading]
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