A Contribution to Climbing Magazine: Thumbs

The more I climb, the more I find myself using my thumbs. The first thumb technique most climbers learn is the crimp. By tossing the thumb over the index fingernail, the climber can enhance a small hold and stabilize pulling movement. But beyond that, a thumb is a fat, useless piece of flesh, like a [continue reading]

Hangboard, Campus Board and Weights: Emperical Tips

Since tearing my MCL almost a month ago, I’ve focused on training sessions involving the hangboard, campus board and targeted weightlifting. I’m not an expert in training, but below are recommendations and tactics I’ve learned in the last 4 weeks, along with photos and videos to illustrate important concepts. (Make sure to have the sound [continue reading]

May 262010
5 Ways to Improve your Climbing TODAY!

Good Morning!  The sun is shining, the birds are singing, and you’re going climbing.  Life is good.  You may have been training all winter in the hopes of sending, or maybe you haven’t climbed in a month.  Either way, this article will outline 5 strategies you can employ TODAY to climb your best.  (author’s note: [continue reading]

Mar 072010
Circuit Training for Climbing

I’ve detailed specific exercises I employ while training for climbing (link).  This article is about putting it all together, an example of the circuit routines I use while training.

Briefly- Ankle Wrap, Moving past the Plateau,  etc.

It’s no secret that I often sprain my ankles (1, 2).  Here’s a quick and simple way to wrap an ankle before climbing: 1.  Grab your chalk and tape. 2.  Begin wrapping the ankle with the tape STICKY SIDE OUT.  Wrap around the ball a few times, then around the bottom of the foot a [continue reading]

Stretching

Posted by Eli at 8:26 pm Training
Nov 032009
Stretching

Stretching will increase your flexibility making it easier to move and maintain good technique.Stretching also decreases muscle soreness. Below I’ll present the stretches I use for climbing. If you’ve participated in any organized sports, most of these stretches will be old news. Two of them, however, are stretches specifically modified for climbing, I’ll start with [continue reading]

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