It’s that time of year again. Dusting off the rack and getting outside in earnest. It can be hard to get the lead head back after a winter of gym climbing (or skiing!). As I see it, there are three ways to obtain confidence while climbing: Self confidence based on past successes, self confidence based [continue reading]
The most recent issue of Climbing magazine included a short article by Justin Roth devoted to the effects gyms have on the world of outdoor climbing. Supported by quotes from old-school trad climbers and modern-day gym owners, Roth presented the following points: 1. Gyms lead to an increased number of climbers who are not as [continue reading]
It’s no secret that I often sprain my ankles (1, 2). Here’s a quick and simple way to wrap an ankle before climbing: 1. Grab your chalk and tape. 2. Begin wrapping the ankle with the tape STICKY SIDE OUT. Wrap around the ball a few times, then around the bottom of the foot a [continue reading]
Stretching will increase your flexibility making it easier to move and maintain good technique.Stretching also decreases muscle soreness. Below I’ll present the stretches I use for climbing. If you’ve participated in any organized sports, most of these stretches will be old news. Two of them, however, are stretches specifically modified for climbing, I’ll start with [continue reading]

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