Down Climbing

In a dark red cave, thirty feet above the belay, the polished walls and darkness above told me I was off route. ——————————————————– Down climbing is an essential skill to have as a climber. It can get you out of a jam, or allow you to “save” the onsight. I’ve trained for (or been force [continue reading]

Beat the Heat- Climbing in the Summer

Justin Jaeger on Terradactyl in Upper Chaos Canyon, RMNP. Music by Sofo Summer time is my favorite time to climb, but the conditions can make sending hard. At my home crag of Eldorado Springs, routes are graded by the heat, like “If you climb it once the sun comes around that corner, it’s a grade [continue reading]

Bitty Butress, Rincon, and a Nasty Fall.

After a quick trip last weekend to Husker heaven for a family reunion, it was back to the Front Range this weekend. The climbing started on Friday when Ryan and I rushed up to Bitty Buttress in lower Boulder Canyon to climb the area’s namesake route. Bitty is immediately across from Cob Rock and slightly [continue reading]

Gym Projects

The phrase itself, which I’m sure is obsolete outside of the flattest parts of the country, is probably enough to make anyone who has actual rock climbing in their backyard blow milk out their nose. I’m pretty sure that my gumby rating sky-rocketed just by saying it. Exhibit A: Gumby geared up to work the [continue reading]

Mental Inertia

The Innovation Algorithm, by Genrich Altshuller is a must read for any engineer/ inventor. It lays out a systematic way of solving problems based on: defining the actual problem, solving technical contradictions, and historical methods/ trends. A portion of the text deals with mental inertia, and how it can make solving a problem difficult. I’ve [continue reading]

One for my Hommies

Cold treatments can be effective at treating and preventing injuries. I don’t know a whole lot about it (Refer to Figure 1) but Dave Macleod does. Check out this article on his site for further information. Figure 1: My typical cold treatment for swollen fingers. I’m heading up to Nederland this weekend for Frozen Dead [continue reading]

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