Stretching

 Posted by at 8:26 pm  Training
Nov 032009
 

Stretching will increase your flexibility making it easier to move and maintain good technique.Stretching also decreases muscle soreness. Below I’ll present the stretches I use for climbing. If you’ve participated in any organized sports, most of these stretches will be old news. Two of them, however, are stretches specifically modified for climbing, I’ll start with [continue reading]

Notes on Indoor Climbing

 Posted by at 6:00 pm  Training
Sep 072009
 

A little photo time lapse of Chris’s on-sight attempt of Ten Digit Dialing Being from Nebraska, I learned to climb on an indoor rock wall, so I can’t help but be interested in indoor climbing. What follows is assorted notes on indoor climbing…

Down Climbing

 Posted by at 7:23 pm  Training, Video
Aug 242009
 

In a dark red cave, thirty feet above the belay, the polished walls and darkness above told me I was off route. ——————————————————– Down climbing is an essential skill to have as a climber. It can get you out of a jam, or allow you to “save” the onsight. I’ve trained for (or been force [continue reading]

A Note on Motion

 Posted by at 8:20 pm  Climbing, Featured, Training
Apr 222009
 

I recently took some video of me doing pull ups to study to natural of the movement. Specifically, I’m interested in the velocity and acceleration (and forces) of a typical pull up. Results follow. *Warning: This may bore you, I’m not offended if you don’t read it*

Massage Basics

 Posted by at 9:36 pm  Et Cetera, Training
Apr 192009
 

[Insert joke about masturbation here], but seriously, I get really sore and massage helps loosen up tight muscles, and get rid of knots. I just got a deep tissue massage today. Deep tissue massage involves a lot of pressure and movement ACROSS the muscle fibers. Here are some resources and techniques I’m using for self [continue reading]

Grip Strength Exercises

 Posted by at 6:00 am  Training
Feb 162009
 

Kris floating through The Pearl Ultimate grip strength is arguably the most important strength in climbing. There are many training methods to increase grip strength. This is the part of training that I enjoy most and see the most results from. Here are the methods I use:

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