It seems like I’ve been rock blocked every weekend for the past month. Anyways, I had a great Easter with friends, and got out to the Musical Boulders on Friday. Also, I got another pad recently. That’s two nice, used crash pads for $130, sweet. Also, it looks like I’m getting $1600 back from the [continue reading]
Sunday was awesome. We did the Bastille Crack to Outer Space to Your Mother. Sweet!
The Musical Boulders are pretty isolated for Eldo standards. They are reach by hiking toward Rincon, then turning left. Climbs in the vid: warm up on Little Egg, Sound Wave boulder traverse, V3 on Little Egg. Also sent The Walrus (V5, 20+ ft.), one of the classics of the area.
Lock off strength can be a real advantage in climbing. A good lock off: can buy time during route finding, make long moves shorter, and make powerful moves easier. I’m trying to improve at lock offs, and here the exercises I’ll be doing: 1. Pausing while climbing. Pause for 3 seconds before latching each hold [continue reading]
Here’s some stuff I’m working on for the blog… Training articles-A “decision”/ flow chart to simplify & explain periodization and training strategyGrip strength exercisesLock off exercises Also, I’m sourcing some horse hair brushes for cleaning holds. Horse hair brushes typically work better than wire or nylon brushes, and are better for the rock. These will [continue reading]
I got out to Boulder Canyon briefly today to try Candelaria’s Crack, a 5.11+/5.12- fingers roof crack. It was super windy (my pad blew 100 yards away–into the creek), and the climb was shady. It felt pretty cold for 60 deg. F. After pretending a Thermarest and my pad wouldn’t blow away, and would catch [continue reading]
Talk