Lock off strength can be a real advantage in climbing. A good lock off: can buy time during route finding, make long moves shorter, and make powerful moves easier. I’m trying to improve at lock offs, and here the exercises I’ll be doing: 1. Pausing while climbing. Pause for 3 seconds before latching each hold [continue reading]
Feb 142009
Feb 112009
Here’s some stuff I’m working on for the blog… Training articles-A “decision”/ flow chart to simplify & explain periodization and training strategyGrip strength exercisesLock off exercises Also, I’m sourcing some horse hair brushes for cleaning holds. Horse hair brushes typically work better than wire or nylon brushes, and are better for the rock. These will [continue reading]
Feb 062009
I got out to Boulder Canyon briefly today to try Candelaria’s Crack, a 5.11+/5.12- fingers roof crack. It was super windy (my pad blew 100 yards away–into the creek), and the climb was shady. It felt pretty cold for 60 deg. F. After pretending a Thermarest and my pad wouldn’t blow away, and would catch [continue reading]
Feb 042009
Here’s a little clip of Adam climbing at Sunny Side crag in Red Rocks. The route was really good, with a bouldery crux and some run outs. The music is File 713 by Sofo. If you like what you see- Adam is newly single and has a full rack. If you like what you hear- [continue reading]
Jan 192009
So boulder problems are graded with the V scale. There’s a rough translation to the Yosemite Decimal System below, but it should be understood that the systems are different.I understand the YDS as the on-sight difficulty of a route- encompassing technical difficulty, pump, route finding, etc. The V scale seems to only include technical difficulty. [continue reading]
Jan 122009
Okay, a couple more items to help prepare for a tough climb… Food: I try to eat some simple calorie (like granola or peanut butter) a little while before climbing. Movement: Scope the route from the ground. Mimic the moves- focusing especially on your core muscles. Skin: Make sure your hands are clean. I won’t [continue reading]
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