Too Much Chalk from Climbing House on Vimeo.

A weight lifting belt should be used to add weight as needed while training. A harness, sling, and dumbell combination is a good substitute for a weight lifting belt.

Circuit training is rotating between dissimilar exercises during a workout.  Because the exercises work different muscle groups, you can move from one exercise to the next without taking a break.  This allows you to maintain a higher heart rate during the workout, and lets you fit more exercise into the same amount of time.  So here’s the basic process to setting up a circuit routine:

• Select muscle groups to work.  I usually select 3 main groups.  At this point you should decide whether the routine is to improve power or endurance.  For power training, the exercise should be harder with shorter time/ repetitions (I usually shoot for 6 repetitions).  For endurance training, the exercise should be easier with higher repetitions/ time intervals (10-15 repetitions or 30-45 sec. intervals).
• Select specific exercises.  I typically select 2-3 exercises per muscle group for a 1 hour circuit routine and add in some “filler” type exercises (like jump rope, push ups, etc.) as needed for a total of 9-12 exercises.  Group these exercises into 2-3 groups (AKA circuits) keeping similar exercises in different groups (i.e. push ups and bench press would not be in the same group).
• Set up workspace for the first group of exercises to allow you to move quickly between stations.  This should involve setting the weights out, clearing space, etc.
• Warm up.  I usually do ~15 minutes of bouldering prior to working out.
• Do circuit routine.  Rotate between the exercises in group 1 until each exercise has been done three times.  Take a short break, then set up group 2  and rotate through that circuit 3 times.  Repeat until all groups (and thus all exercises) have been completed.
• Stretch or cool down climbing ~10 minutes

Example: Power Routine

Main Muscle groups: Forearms, Pulling, Core

Specific exercises:

Forearms: Finger rolls, dead hang on sloper (weighted, arms slightly bent)

Pulling: Weighted pull ups, rows, dumbbell pulls

Core: Plank, bridge, medicine ball twists, medicine ball slams

Other: Push ups on rings

Target repetitions: about 6, unless noted otherwise

Workout duration: 1 hour

Warm up: 15 minutes easy bouldering

Circuit 1 (rotate through 2 times)

• Plank- both arms (hold 20 sec), left arm only (20 sec), right arm only (20 sec)
• Bridge- both legs on ground (20 sec), left leg up (20 sec), right leg up (20 sec), repeat all three with heels on ground instead of flat feet
• Medicine ball twists (30 total, each side counts as 1)
• Medicine ball slams (30 secs)

The entire first circuit is core exercises.  This may seem contradictory to the instructions above, however each exercise works the muscles differently or addresses different muscles (back, abs, obliques, etc.)

Circuit 2 (rotate through 3 times)

• Finger Rolls- 6 reps, weight as needed (try body weight and adjust from there)
• Weighted pull ups- 6 reps, 45 lbs. (adjustable)
• Dumbbell pulls- 6 reps, 70 lbs (adj.)

Circuit 3 (rotate through 3 times)

• Finger Rolls- 6 reps, weight as needed (try body weight and adjust from there)
• Push-ups on rings- 10 reps (elevate feet on 6″-12″ box if available, keep core tight like in plank)
• Dead hang on slopers- 10 sec goal time, hang 3 times before moving to next exercise (45 lbs. adj.)
• Rows- 6 reps (shoot for body weight)

I’ve included Finger Rolls in two separate circuits because I consider that exercise the cornerstone of the routine, and I want to do 6 sets of the exercise (not 3 sets like the other exercises).

Cool down: 15 minutes easy bouldering (possibly some stretching too)

Eat within 15 minutes of finishing workout.  Below is a workout spreadsheet you may find useful (excel version here).  I’ll try to detail an endurance circuit routine sometime soon.  Post up anything you have to add in the comments.

A local crusher exhausted after working Big Blue (5.13b)

After three weeks somewhere, it begins to feel like home.  The faces are familiar, and we have a routine: sun, wake, coffee, friends, walk to crag, climb, walk back, smile, cook, sleep.  I’m back in Boulder, in the loving arms of my girlfriend Amy.  She asked what I missed when I was in Mexico, and my list was surprisingly small: Amy, couch, good coffee.  El Potrero Chico is designed for visiting climbers and has almost everything one would need, without all the excess.

• EPC is affordable: our camping/ facilities fee was $5 a night and it included a kitchen, bathrooms, a pool, wifi and more.  The close restaurants had meals for about $5-$8, and cheaper food could be had.
• EPC is safe: The locals are friendly and crime is pretty low in this area of Mexico.  There is some loose rock, but it really wasn’t an issue.  I didn’t knock off any rocks the whole time.
• EPC is fun:  The rock is good, the weather is typically good, and everyone was cool.
• You should go.

Andrew exploring The Crystal Cave AKA an old abandon mine

Prior to starting my trip, I wanted to make a lot of videos while down there (a la Vertical Carnival style).  This didn’t work out for a couple of reasons:

• It’s hard.  Damn, I have so much respect for those guys making beautiful videos of the places they visit. I knew I couldn’t get the results I wanted without making that my main objective.
• It interferes.   Some days I took the camera out, some days I didn’t, making a point to just experience without seeing through a lens.  Filming or taking photos also changes your surroundings and interactions (think MTV’s The Real World, or any number of other “reality” shows).
  

  Gary working Bottom Feeder (5.12d). This heart-break climb has one really hard move towards the top.

The more I photograph, the more I realize many great photos are planned.  Lights, timing, having the model/climber climb a route multiple times, etc.  I love the “honesty” of unplanned photos, but to get consistent results, I need to be organized and have climbers willing to work together for a final product.  I’m getting better at this everyday.  Here are a couple related articles you may find interesting:

Rock and Ice interviews leading photographers

Chase Jarvis Discusses “making sausage”

Josh enjoying an evening pitch at Mota Wall

The Super Select gallery of El Potrero Chico photos is up (click a photo above or here).

Ryan working up Positively Fourth Street

I was excited to onsight Pony Express. It just goes to show that my motto is true: Every now and then a blind squirrel finds an acorn.

About to enter the first crux of Pony Express and move out to the arete

Pony Express was a great way to get my lead head back after months in the gym. The second pitch wanders briefly onto an exposed arete then forces a reachy move to a good rail while just hoping your feet won’t pop. The best protection offered during the first crux is a fixed nut that looked a bit suspect. Multiple cruxes follow like tremors after an earthquake and like Eli would say the entire line makes you “earn it.”

I love the feeling of coming home after a day outside. Spring is here.

By the same token, our group takes climbing seriously.  I’ve seen everyone pushing themselves, both physically and mentally, in the gym over the winter.  The results are very evident and I’m proud of the grit, enthusiasm and determination everyone has shown.  This will translate to the outdoors and I can’t wait to see the looks on many of my friends’ faces when expectations rooted in last year get smoked.  Almost everyone in our circle is now at the point of being a talented enough climber with the technical abilities to lead sport climbing excursions.  Last year at this time only a few of us were at that level.  Others have started learning the skills needed for multipitch and trad climbing.  For me all of this means more opportunities to really tackle some of these goals we all love to talk about.

At the time I spoke with Chris, my thoughts were scattered, but listing some goals for this season, especially publicly, will hopefully help me get organized and keep me on track.  I’m going to try to be realistic.  In that spirit I’ll stick to Colorado.

So without further ado, here are many of my goals for the coming year:

Eldorado Canyon:  It’s time to really get to know my neighbor down the road.  I’m feeling more comfortable with the cryptic and at times scary climbing of Eldo.  I’m also in the best climbing shape of my life and am more confident with difficult trad climbing than at this point last year.  I could list many areas and more than 100 routes I want to do in Eldo, but I’ll just name some:

The West Ridge: This is a very accessible area with hundreds of routes.  Most routes are one or two pitches.  Here I’d like to climb Pony Express (5.11c), Iron Pony (5.11d), Iron Horse (5.11c), Wishbone (5.11b), Wild Turkey (5.12a) and Wingshot (5.11b).

Redgarden Wall: It wouldn’t be hard to find something new to climb here every day for the entire year.  A few routes I’d like to do are Naked Edge (5.11b), Rewritten (5.7), Yellow Spur (5.9), The Contest (5.11d), Wild Kingdom (5.11c) and Predator (5.11d).  These last two routes are 150’+  lines that split off from the first and second bolts of the amazing Rosy Crucifixion traverse.

Rincon Wall:  I spent a ton of time at the Rincon Wall last year and absolutely loved it.  I’d like to give a redpoint attempt of Aerial Book (5.11a R) and lead Aerospace/Aerohead (5.11b R).  Kris onsighted the latter last year and I followed it clean on TR.

Jason on Ariel Book. The arete on the right is Aerospace.

The Flatirons: A new guidebook by Jason Hass from Sharp End Publishing just came out for this expansive area, notoriously difficult to navigate.  This will make the area much more accessible for me.  The Flatirons are Boulder’s backyard and there are tons and tons of great looking sport, mixed and trad lines there, ranging from massive 10 pitch adventures to single pitch routes.  My goal for this area isn’t really to climb specific routes, it’s to explore and enjoy some quiet days in a beautiful place away from the crowds.  Since most areas require 45-75 minute hikes, many people stay away.  I imagine a perfect day in the Flatirons as climbing an easier multipitch line, grabbing lunch and finishing on one or two difficult single pitch routes.  I’d love to find a hard sport line in this area to really work over the course of the summer.

Clear Creek:  Though there are still lines I’d like to work in Boulder Canyon and Dream Canyon, I’d like to shift my sport climbing focus somewhat to the marbled granite of Clear Creek.  If there’s anything I’d call my project at the moment, it’s Ten Digit Dialing (5.12c), a popular route with cool 5.11 climbing that leads to a lengthy V5 boulder problem at the top.  It’s a very beta intensive route that is well protected and fun to work.  The same Wall of the 90s area hosts Wet Dream (5.12a), another line I’m close to sending, as well as two cracks I’d like to do, Thirty-Aught Six (5.12a) and Roadrunner (5.10d).  I’d also like to check out the Anarchy Wall and the Primo Wall, both areas of harder sport climbing as well as return to the Wall of Justice, one of the few local areas with numerous high quality severely overhung lines.

Lumpy Ridge: Ryan and I got out to Lumpy last year and had a fantastic, memorable day.  Though I haven’t spent the time to figure out particular routes I’d like to do, Lumpy is another area in which one could climb something classic everyday for a year without trouble.  One route I will mention is the beautiful splitter J-Crack (5.9).

The J-Crack slab area of the Book at Lumpy Ridge. The crack on the left is J-Crack. The crack on the right is Femp, a great route that Ryan and I did last year.

Penitente Canyon: Everyone I’ve asked about Penitente Canyon has raved about it.  The area is filled with ultra classic sport routes of a variety of grades.

The South Platte region: My second outdoor climbing trip was to Turkey Rocks.  There I got absolutely schooled and bloody on 5.8 cracks.  Now, 4 years later, I’d love to return and see how I fare.

In general I’d like to do more bouldering.  Working problems with a small group of friends is the most social form of climbing I’ve found.  There is tons of good bouldering around here including in Mount Evans, Eldo and Green Mountain.

When the October snow starts to fall, I’ll take stock and see just how much of this I got to.

Of course, I’m going to need your help.

Who’s in?

Just another pretty face. Keri onsighting some 5.11 high on Super Mini Wall

We’re linking pitches to cover ground quickly.  The sun is strong now; we need to get to the pool as soon as possible.  I climb 200′ to Andrew, pause for a moment, and shoot off again, covering 400 vertical feet in a few hot minutes.  The black rubber of my shoes is scorching in the sun.  Behind mirrored glasses sweat drips into my eyes.

(Click the photo above, or here for some recent photos)

Today is a blessing.  Yesterday, I twisted my ankle and fell into assorted sharp plants.  A 1/4″ thorn penetrated my thumb, and threatened to push through my fingernail from underneath.  Now my ankle is swollen, but fine, and the climbing is a little slower but good.

We simul-rappel with hands burning on the thin rope, chase shade on the 5 minute walk back to camp, and scream into the pool.  Life is good, no, GREAT!  Cooking quesadillas with fresh peppers, sore muscles, never a clock or a hurry.

Our time here is nearing an end, and thoughts from our normal lives are creeping into our consciousness.  Work/Money, family and friend commitments, etc.  I’m looking forward to my return, and I know everything will work out, no need to worry.  Talk to you soon, friend.

E

We walk down the single lane road until a friend picks us up.  The market is chaotic and fun.  I am missing my girlfriend Amy, and I suppose that is what this post is about, methods Amy and I use to maintain our relationship when we are apart…

Travel to EPC from Climbing House on Vimeo.

A buddy recently asked me “How is Amy okay with you traveling so much?”  I think I responded something like “I guess I’m just lucky.”  While this is true, there are a few things we’ve been doing to lessen the burden of distance:

1.  Daily cards or “Love Notes” if you will.  I’ve made a habit of writing Amy a short note for every day I’m away.  This has been a good way for us to connect daily, and sitting down for an hour to write notes really makes you realized the length of a trip.

2.  Regular communication.  Damn, the world is SO connected.  I usually call or email Amy once a day, in the evening.  There are only a handful of places I frequent (Castle Valley for one) that don’t have email or cell coverage close at hand.  Here in Mexico, we’re using gmail chat and email to keep in touch.

3.  Understanding.  Here’s a little excerpt from an email Amy wrote me:

“It will be magic to be with you again. It’s been good to miss you, in a lot of ways. I’m ready for you to come back. I wish it were soon, but I know this adventure is good for your soul, heart and mind, in ways that couldn’t be fulfilled without the journey you are taking. There is nothing in this world quite like traveling. I’m so proud of you.”

How do you get understanding?  I don’t know, but am so thankful to have it.  If you would like to share a tip you have, post up in the comments.

Down a gravel road, this hacienda sits, surrounded by cactus

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We woke up to a thickening layer of low, white clouds. After a bowl of Zucaritas con Tigre Toni (frosted flakes) and some instant coffee, we packed up and headed into the canyon, unsure what we’d find. The clouds lifted, and we climbed 2 separate 2 pitch routes up freestanding limestone spires(1,2).

We simul-rappelled, then hiked out down a dusty road, passing many familiar, friendly faces. The golden sun blanketed our backs and all was right.

Everything is going well in El Potrero Chico.  We have been enjoying life and chillin’ at a brake neck pace (that makes sense, right?).  You can click the photo above (or here) for some recent pictures from the trip. 

In addition to climbing, I’ve made time to read while here, with my favorite La Posada library book being Climb or Die by Edward Myers.  This classic tells the riveting tale of The Darcy’s trip through Colorado gone awry.  The children are force to improvise climbing equipment and climb Mount Remington, with the question always looming “Shall we climb, or shall we DIE!!!!???????”  Must read.

Summit of Space Boyz from Climbing House on Vimeo.