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Workout Without Equipment (1)

It’s easy to get a good climbing workout without any equipment. Everyone knows about push-up & sit-ups, here are a few exercises to add to your routine. The following exercises are part of the Athletik Spesifik general conditioning routine (Thanks Dave!). I don’t know the names of some of ‘em, so excuse me if I get them wrong.

Exercise: Front Plank
Muscles: Core strength (specifically abs), shoulders, back
Benefit: Steep terrain, lockoff strength, body tension

Lay on stomach. Move up on to forearms and toes. Forearms are parallel, feet are shoulder width apart, body straight. Crunch abs, arch back “like a cat”, elbow angle should be 90 degrees or less. Hold position for 20 seconds. Repeat.Front plank- great for core strengthcore strength makes good climbers

Modifications:
Easier: Allow hands to move towards one another, forearms will not be parallel. Make elbow angle no smaller than 90 degrees.

Harder: Lift one hand to chest, maintain body (especially hips) parallel to ground. Switch arms, repeat.work the back for climbing strength

Even harder: With one hand at chest, turn body towards the arm on the ground. If you’re doing it right, this should hurt.

Exercise: Core Bridge
Muscles: Core specifically obliques and lower back, quads, butt
Benefits: Reducing barndooring and staying tight on steep stuff

Lay on back, knees bent, arms straight up in the arm. Raise hips to make a straight line between shoulder-hip-knee. Feet at shoulder width, lower leg making 90 degree with ground. Hold for 20 seconds, repeat.
climbing exercise- bridge
Modifications:
Harder: Lift one foot. Continue the straight line from shoulders to toe. Keep hips parallel to ground. This is the real workout- do both legs.

core strength is important for climbing
Exercise: Hamstring leg raises
Muscles: Hamstrings
Benefits: Heel hooks, arête squeezing

Sit on butt with legs straight in front. Put arms behind you with fingers facing away from toes, hands flat on ground. Raise hips to make a straight line from feet to shoulders. Keep arms slightly bent. Raise one leg ten times, switch legs. Repeat.
good for heel hooks and arete climbinghamstring exercise for climbing

Jen - Hey, thanks for posting these. The hamstring leg raises really hurt my wrists. Is this a matter of poor form? Is there a way I can work around it? Thanks!December 20, 2010 – 10:58 pm

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Charlotte Climbing Scene

Well I’m still in Charlotte. My sister and boss always talk about me moving down here, so I can’t help but think about it. I went to the local outdoor shop (REI) and saw the two isles of climbing equipment (mostly stuff for indoors). I asked a clerk a question about headlamps and received an answer about “workin’ under the hood”.

I went to the local climbing gym, Inner Peaks, with my brother-in-law, Zack. We had a good time. The gym was nice overall, the staff and regulars had beta for the local (2-3 hours away) crags. The route settings wasn’t that good- like old holds that aren’t as ergonomic, and inconsistent and inaccurate ratings. This was a hassle because I needed to find easy routes for Zack. The wall was a little short, much of the area was devoted to slabs with untaped jugs, the bouldering and lead areas looked nice. Being a “real” climber, I felt like the minority. I wasn’t in a kids birthday party or a family outing.
Inner peaks Climbing gym in Charlotte NC
Mountain Project says North Carolina may contain the best climbing in the South. I haven’t checked out the crags, but I can say the “scene” feels entirely different. The local destinations in the South seem like any other crag in Colorado, and they’re further away. Being a “real” climber would be hard here, and probably a little lonely.

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2008 Retrospective

Well, today is Christmas Eve. I’ve spent the last couple weeks in Charlotte, North Carolina working and visiting family. Thursday will be two weeks without climbing. My body needed the rest.

2008 was a great year for me personally, and my climbing. I had two big goals: Do a first ascent, and climb 5.13. I accomplished both goals.

The first ascent came almost by accident. Katie and I were wrapping up a visiting to Red Rocks when we happened upon a small crack, later named Quail’s Gamble. This climb was very exciting (read: scary), and was a perfect way to end our trip.

I climbed Challenges of Leisure on the day after Thanksgiving. I wanted it so bad, but I had basically decided it would wait unitl next year. Amy and I got up late, and on a whim decided to go do the climb. I didn’t even have my climbing equipment- I borrowed draws and a harness from friends.

The key to the route was using shoes designed for steep terrain (even though the climb is flat), and doing the crux static. The crux felt easy. I was nervous finishing in the waning light, and light snow. We hiked out in the dark.

Amy Ross - You forgot to mention the car trouble, our near brush with death by mountain lion, and my frost-bitten hands… :)December 30, 2008 – 4:22 pm

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The Stool

So for a while now, I’ve thought of my life as a Venn diagram with climbing, family & friends, and work. It kinda bothered me that the parts of my life weren’t more connected. This is probably why I still look for jobs in the outdoor industry while I have an engineering job I love.

I have a new perspective on things (today at least). What if life is more like a stool, with each leg representing a different part. Together the stool is balanced and whole. My legs are climbing, friends & family, and work.

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