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Lock Off Excercises

Lock off strength can be a real advantage in climbing. A good lock off: can buy time during route finding, make long moves shorter, and make powerful moves easier. I’m trying to improve at lock offs, and here the exercises I’ll be doing:

1. Pausing while climbing. Pause for 3 seconds before latching each hold on a boulder problem.
2. Frenchies. These are pull ups where you pause at various locations on the descent.

Frenchies from Climbing House on Vimeo.

3. Off set pull ups. I try to focus on pulling up as high as possible.

4. Rows, or simliar. Dumbbell pulls are a good replacement for rows.
5. Figure 4 moves on rings

Figure 4 from Climbing House on Vimeo.

kris - #4 is an excellent exercise. Learned it from friends in the Bay Area, and now is a staple of my regimen. My thoughts: Don’t be afraid to use some weight here, and I focus on pulling up semi-quickly and releasing down slowly.

Thanks for the list, Eli!February 15, 2009 – 1:37 pm

Eli Powell - Thanks for the tip Kris.February 15, 2009 – 7:45 pm

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