A little photo time lapse of Chris’s on-sight attempt of Ten Digit Dialing
Being from Nebraska, I learned to climb on an indoor rock wall, so I can’t help but be interested in indoor climbing. What follows is assorted notes on indoor climbing…
Jamie Emerson discusses the worth and progression of climbing indoors here. He brings up some good points. I can honestly say I enjoy indoor climbing in and of itself. Think about it, you have the friends, movement, & difficulty of climbing, with the safety, weather, etc. of the indoors. It is not only a tool to get stronger.
Some people use the term “gym ethics” to explain chipping, bolt-on holds, etc. outside. This is a mistake. A climbing gym is no more guilty of breeding bad ethics than a grocery store is guilty of making people fat.
The gym is a safe place to get stronger, but it is important to maintain some (apparent) risk. I often see climbers grabbing quickdraws instead of taking a safe fall. This WILL translate outdoors to grabbing draws, standing on hangers, etc.I try to build the mental toughness in a safe environment, then send outside.
RedPoint Manager provides a service to track routes, and users progression indoors (think Mountain Project/ 8a.nu for indoors). Movement gym is using the service; one neat feature is all the gym’s routes are online, as shown in the graph below.
The time I dedicate to climbing varies based on the rest of life’s obligations. After up to a month off, here is what I do to get my strength/ endurance/ fitness back quickly:
1. Laps on routes– 2 weeks- 3 sessions a week, 5 sets of climb-til-you-fall laps on a particular rope (hopefully a few different routes on said rope). At least 4 times up the wall per set.
2. Hard Routes + Bouldering– 2 weeks- 3 sessions a week. Leave the gym exhausted, do some pull ups, or light general weight training if the routes & problems didn’t work you enough.
In a month of not climbing a my lose 1 number grade off my max redpoint level. After the month of training noted above, I’ll have 90% back.
Lately, I’ve been climbing at the Denver Bouldering Club with some friends. The gym is great; it feels like a home woody, but with tons of area and great problems. The atmosphere is very supportive and friendly. This is key; terrain & problems are less important than having motivating friends surrounding you.