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A Contribution to Climbing Magazine: Thumbs

The more I climb, the more I find myself using my thumbs. The first thumb technique most climbers learn is the crimp. By tossing the thumb over the index fingernail, the climber can enhance a small hold and stabilize pulling movement. But beyond that, a thumb is a fat, useless piece of flesh, like a bastard step uncle.

Climbing Magazine: December/January 2012

This thought prompted me to send a piece to Climbing Magazine on the ways in which the thumbs can be put to work for your send. You can read the full piece on Climbing’s website here. Keep reading to see the awesome illustration by Jamie Givens that accompanied the article.

Use the thumb for an inverse crimp on an awkward pebble. Artist: Jamie Givens; Image appears in Dec./Jan. 2012 issue of Climbing

If you haven’t checked out this full issue of Climbing, you missed the most impressive offwidth I’ve ever seen (cover). The impossibly long roof splitter is likely the hardest wide crack climb in the world. The photos of this new route, “Century Crack” (F.A. Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall) simultaneously make me inspired, amazed and want to throw up.

Thanks to Jeff Achey and Jamie Givens for excellent editing and cool artwork.

Doug - Looks like they misspelled “awkward” in the drawing’s caption. Regardless, nice little write-up, Adam. So how many published articles is that for you now?February 15, 2012 – 7:39 am

Adam Scheer - Actually, that was my error in writing this up! I rely on spell check like grandma relies on Muselex.

This is the third piece. I enjoy writing up these Tech Tips and obviously Climbing is a good forum. Eventually, maybe I’ll have an idea for a longer piece.February 15, 2012 – 9:10 am

E.F.R. - Nice work, Adam!February 15, 2012 – 10:30 am

Tyler - Congrats on another article, it’s always cool to see these.February 18, 2012 – 11:09 am

Chris - Yeah, man. Congratulations. I love seeing familiar faces in the climbing mags, especially when they’re fellow flatlanders (you’ll always be one, don’t deny it). I’d love to get together sometime and talk about this “longer piece” idea. I think may have some input…February 22, 2012 – 10:20 am

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