5 Amazing Sport Climbing Areas in the US (2024 Guide)

The United States is known for its incredible diversity of outdoor spaces, and this diversity holds when it comes to all disciplines of rock climbing, as well. For sport climbers, the USA offers just about everything you could hope for.

From the steep, pumpy sandstone of the Red River Gorge, to the bullet-hard limestone sport climbing at Rifle Mountain Park, to the historic tuff and basalt columns of Smith Rock, there is a bevy of world-class sport crags to choose from in the Land of the Free.

Of course, the US is a famously vast country, and the climbing is as spread out as everything else, so it’s not easy to hop around between several different crags in one trip. Luckily, most of these sport climbing destinations have enough routes to keep you busy for a lifetime of projecting and sending, much less a long weekend.

In this article, I’ll give an overlay of seven of the top sport climbing areas in the United States. Let’s dive in!

best sport climbing areas in the united states — Photo by Lionello Delpiccolo

1. Smith Rock, Oregon

Rimming the snaky bends of the (aptly-named) Crooked River, Smith Rock State Park, just 30 minutes north of Bend, is oft-touted as the birthplace of American sport climbing. This high desert crag spans 650 acres and has nearly 2,000 routes ranging from 5-easy to 5.14d (the legendary Assassin, established by then-16-year-old climber Drew Ruana in 2016).

The walls at Smith Rock are primarily volcanic welded tuff (compressed volcanic ash formed nearly 30 million years ago) with a scattering of surrounding basalt columns as well. The park sits at 3,000 feet in elevation, and climbing here affords spectacular views of the Cascades to the north. You can ask for no better sport crag in the American West.

Classic Routes

A list of Smith Rock “classics” would take up this entire article, but you can’t visit Smith without hopping on 5 Gallon Buckets (5.8/5a) (1). This 60-foot sport route on the Morning Glory Wall, which ascends a face chocked with massive huecos, is a strong contender for the most popular route at Smith Rock, and is certainly one of the most impressive beginner routes in the park. The route’s easy access makes it a perfect warmup line, as well.

Voyage of the Cowdog (5.8+/5a) (2) and Wherever I May Roam (5.9/5b) (3) are two other great easy-moderates, but have a lot more length, the former with three pitches (260 feet) and the latter five (400 feet). If looking for the stunning easy multi-pitches in Smith, these are a good starting point. If you’re interested in tackling the stiffer end of things, check out Toxic (5.11b/6c) (4) in the Aggro Gully, and Heinous Cling (5.12c/7b+) (5) in the Dihedrals.

smith offers world-class climbing and breathtaking scenery — Photo by Kamala Bright

How to Get There

The outdoor mecca of Bend is the best access point for Smith Rock State Park. The crag is a mere 35 minutes north of Bend along Highway 97, a straight shot the whole way.

Once you reach the small town of Terrebonne, turn onto Smith Rock Way (just past Redpoint Climbers Supply, a gear shop), and you’ll be at the park in a few minutes. If coming from Portland, you’re in for about a three-hour drive (140 miles) to the southeast. Salem and Eugene are equally as far. From Seattle, you can make the haul in about seven hours.

However, it’s worth noting that Redmond Municipal Airport is a mere 10 miles from the park, and several airlines routinely offer direct flights to Redmond from larger airports on the West Coast, including Seattle, Los Angeles, Phoenix, Las Vegas, and even Denver. Once you land, you’ll need to take a taxi/Uber or hire a shuttle to get to the park, as there is no public transportation option.

steep climbing on one of the many single pitch sport routes at smith — Photo by Ben Kitching

Where to Stay

Camping is fairly cheap and easy at Smith, with walk-in campground the “Bivy” operating on a first-come, first-serve basis. This is where most climbers stay, as it provides quick access to the crag. You’ll find everything you need, including showers, a charging station, clean water, and restrooms.

You’ll need to buy a permit for every night you stay ($8 per night) and reservations or advance bookings are not allowed. The Bivy is open from March 15 to November 15 each year. Check-in is at 4:00 pm and check-out is at 1:00 pm.

There are plenty of other campgrounds as well, including nearby Skull Hollow and Crooked River, both of which accommodate RV camping. The latter also features a swimming pool, tennis court, and golf course.

If you prefer to ditch the camping, stay indoors, and save your energy for the rock, there are plenty of options for you, too. Some include the Crooked River Ranch Cabins and the Bunk+Brew Historic Lucas House (a hostel). The Smith Rock Casita (6), a two-room suite on a 10-acre plot of land just outside the park, is a stellar option for larger groups if you can snag a booking, as is the Smith Rock Nest (7).

climber on volcanic rock in smith, one of the best rock climbing routes — Photo by Ben Kitching

Tips

Entering the state park requires a day permit ($5), but you can also buy a yearly permit for only $30. If you’re planning on staying at least a week in Smith, the yearly permit will pay for itself in one trip. Two-year permits are also available for $50.
Dogs are allowed at Smith, but must be kept on a leash.
Many Smith Rock routes have high first bolts and uneven, steep landings, making it important to have solid control (and a spotter) for your first moves. Bring a stick clip if you aren’t used to extended off-belay climbing at the onset of a route.
While Smith Rock is open year-round, spring and fall are the ideal times to climb, as summer temperatures regularly soar above 100°F. There are also seasonal climbing and highlining closures to protect nesting raptors and a current ban on all drones. Learn more about current closures and restrictions HERE.
Check out our dedicated Smith Rock Climbing Guide for more info.

2. Red River Gorge, Kentucky

Kentucky’s Red River Gorge is regularly listed as the best crag east of the Mississippi, but when you’re talking about sport climbing in particular, there’s a strong case that the “Red” is the best crag in the United States.

Nestled away in the densely-forested hills of eastern Kentucky, largely inside the sprawling Daniel Boone National Forest, this sandstone canyon system offers several thousand steep sport routes spread out across 100+ individual cliffs.

There’s something here for everyone, and the Red’s location means that for much of the Midwest and Southeast, it’s the closest major crag, a veritable mecca for climbers for hundreds of miles in all directions.

red river is a diverse climbing area, here in the fog at sunset