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This past weekend I visited a good friend, Shanon Bender, up in New Hampshire.


The plan was to summit Mt. Adams. For those of you not familiar with the area this peak is just north of Mt. Washington, one of the most dangerous mountains around during the winter. The weather is unpredictable and the winds consistently hit record speeds of 100+ mph.


The first day we hiked up to the Grey Knob RMC cabin in rain. There were some icy sections on the trail so we strapped on the crampons to get some practice before the summit bid in the morning.


When we arrived at the cabin we were informed by the caretaker that she wasn’t planning on lighting the wood burning stove that night because the temp in the cabin had not yet dropped below freezing. It was 33 degrees inside. So we went to sleep chilled, slightly damp, and tired. We awoke the next morning to a depressing yet not unexpected weather report. Wind speeds on Mt. Adams were reaching 70-90 mph, the air temp was -3 degrees, and 4 inches of snow had fallen over night. Our summit plans were flushed. We did however venture out in the wind and cold to explore the area surrounding the hut and of course play in the snow.


The hike out was spectacular. All downhill, about 1 degree air temp, and all the additional snow made everything look like a fairytale land. Our experience was relatively tame compared to the hardcore mountaineers and alpine climbers that brave sub zero temps, breakneck winds, and all while sleeping outside and climbing! Something to aspire to!

kris - Good for you two for your aspirations. I’m sure it is beautiful in any case.February 17, 2009 – 10:43 am

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Grip Strength Exercises

Kris floating through The Pearl

Ultimate grip strength is arguably the most important strength in climbing. There are many training methods to increase grip strength. This is the part of training that I enjoy most and see the most results from. Here are the methods I use: View full post »

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Real none the less

I’m not particularly religious. I consider the outdoors my church, and I love attending. At a real church I used to attend, they lit candles for joys and concerns- with an additional candle for those joys and concerns too personal to share, but real none the less.

Today’s Flatiron Sunset

Today, I’ve been concerned for a dear friend. We are so blessed to have our health and happiness. I wish my friend all the health and happiness in the world.

Eli Powell - I spoke with my friend today, and they’re better.February 15, 2009 – 9:29 pm

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Lock Off Excercises

Lock off strength can be a real advantage in climbing. A good lock off: can buy time during route finding, make long moves shorter, and make powerful moves easier. I’m trying to improve at lock offs, and here the exercises I’ll be doing:

1. Pausing while climbing. Pause for 3 seconds before latching each hold on a boulder problem.
View full post »

kris - #4 is an excellent exercise. Learned it from friends in the Bay Area, and now is a staple of my regimen. My thoughts: Don’t be afraid to use some weight here, and I focus on pulling up semi-quickly and releasing down slowly.

Thanks for the list, Eli!February 15, 2009 – 1:37 pm

Eli Powell - Thanks for the tip Kris.February 15, 2009 – 7:45 pm

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[A Real] Climbing House


Darius is an eccentric Texan who has lived on the front range for almost 20 years. He’s established a hand full of routes, some in direct conflict with the Boulder Open Space bolting ban. Interview and pictures to follow this weekend.

Andrew - When and if I ever get a house of my own I will be doing that to it, HOLDS EVERYWHERE!!February 19, 2009 – 8:27 am

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In the Works

Here’s some stuff I’m working on for the blog…

Training articles-
A “decision”/ flow chart to simplify & explain periodization and training strategy
Grip strength exercises
Lock off exercises

Also, I’m sourcing some horse hair brushes for cleaning holds. Horse hair brushes typically work better than wire or nylon brushes, and are better for the rock. These will be good quality, cheap, and readily available. Look for ’em within a month or so.

If you have any other ideas for articles, etc. hit me up!

In the mean time, here’s a little video of Kris on Spook Eyes in the Kraft Boulders, NV. This problem is beautiful in it’s simplicity, it’s basically one move.

Eli Powell - Hey- The videos are bigger now! Although they’re still low quality.February 11, 2009 – 9:27 pm

kris - Anything for Rick!February 13, 2009 – 1:36 am

Ryan J - Lapis brushes. the best. ever.

http://climbinggearinc.com/lapis-brush-p-1638.html?currency=USDFebruary 15, 2009 – 8:17 am

Eli Powell - Thanks for the link Ryan. Those brushes look nice. The reason I’m trying to order a bunch is because nice brushes don’t seem to be readily available around hear. Buying a $5 brush and spending $7 to ship don’t make a lot of sense.February 15, 2009 – 8:57 am

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