Briefly- Ankle Wrap, Moving past the Plateau, etc.

by Eli on February 8, 2010

It’s no secret that I often sprain my ankles (1, 2).  Here’s a quick and simple way to wrap an ankle before climbing:

1.  Grab your chalk and tape.

2.  Begin wrapping the ankle with the tape STICKY SIDE OUT.  Wrap around the ball a few times, then around the bottom of the foot a few times.

3.  Cover sticky tape with chalk.

4.  Climb.

Disclaimer- This is what I do because it’s quick, and doesn’t require anything special (such as medical pre-wrap).  I also don’t need a ton of support, so the wrap is pretty basic.  For “real” medical wrap instructions, search google (or try this).

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Postcards from Nepal (p.4)

by Eli on February 7, 2010

Editor’s Note: This is the last post in a 4 part series(previous post 1, 2, 3).  Words and photos by Chelsea Phillippe.

Namaste

The last 6 weeks of our Nepal adventure.

Quick facts about Nepal
  • Brittney spears shirts are very popular, and everywhere
  • Above tree line yak dung is burned exclusively
  • Plastic is the worse thing to happen to a poor country…it doesn’t burn.
  • Cell phone reception is good everywhere…and everyone has a cell
  • Instead of buying new expensive tires, they simply retread them
  • Bus is full? ride on top, unless its full too.
  • 2 prices for everything.  tourist price vs. local price

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Remember When…

by Chris on February 6, 2010

Memory is a fickle beast. In the throes of crippling cabin fever, bordering on a mild case of seasonal depression, the vagueness of warm days and warm rock is simultaneously uplifting and incapacitating. These are so distant that training seems pointless, only holing up for the winter and sucking down calories to stay warm makes sense. Even gym sessions end in disappointment, injury, and lethargy.
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Climbing Forums

by Eli on February 3, 2010

Direct link to video here.  This is a recent example of the ridiculousness of some internet climbing forums.  It’s interesting that seemingly similar websites can have such varied communities/ environments.  For example, I’ve noticed more new climbers on rockclimbing.com, nicer (or at least more tolerant/ supportive) climbers on Mountain Project, and more old school climbers on SuperTopo.

You may also be interested in this related discussion.

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bRing the rUCKUS

by Eli on February 1, 2010

Everything itches; a cloud of dust is in the air and covering my body. I’m slowly suffocating beneath my mask, why am I doing this?

This was the start of Ruckus Climbing: a dank garage, some foam, polyurethane, and Luke Kearns. Luke is a veteran route setter at the Boulder Rock Club (BRC). Part artist and part athlete, Luke started producing climbing holds to expand his possibilities when setting.
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Postcards from Nepal (p.3)

by Eli on January 31, 2010

Editor’s note: Part 1 here, Part 2 here. Words and photos by Chelsea Phillippe

Namaste

Our 17 day trek around the Annapurnas was amazing. Almost every day was an uphill walk. We had a special permit to a restricted area called Nar-Phu, that added a wonderful 6 days to our trek. These areas have a heavy Tibet influence, and have only very softly been touched by western influence. They are similar to the Anasazi of the Southwest of the States. They build houses atop each other outta stones and mud. One house’s porch is the other’s roof. They are built into a hill/cliff and there are storage caches up high on cliff walls, like ruins we see in cliffs. Very neat to see people still very happily living this way. A few people had solar panels for light at night, but all cooked with wood and used local food stuffs with a few additions from porters and mule trains.
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