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Review- Sherman Exposed

Sherman Exposed by John Sherman

Have you wondered about the origins of V grades? John Sherman developed this scale in Hueco Tanks in the ’90’s. Sherman Exposed is a book of short stories, with crude humor and a strong voice. The most interesting parts of this book are the profiles of amazing climbers you may have never heard of.

Mark Wilford has flipped or totaled 4 cars, and put up 5.13R/X.

Tom Cosgriff has climbed in Anarctica and soloed 5.9 at night on drugs.

Rob Slater has climbed A5 and BASE jumped off El Cap and into the Black Canyon of Gunnison.

The book is great bedtime read because all the stories are relatively short. You can pick it up for $5 at Chessler Books, or borrow it from me for free- Just drop me an email w/ your address.

Justin - hey man, that book sounds pretty cool. I would love to borrow it from you, let me just email you that address…..February 11, 2009 – 6:40 am

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Blood Sandwich

I never thought I’d have to explain this, but here’s some tips on making a PB&J sandwich.

1. Apply peanut butter to a piece of bread. Use crunchy PB or add nuts to make it hardier.

2. Apply jelly to bread. Do Not use a lot of jelly- it makes the bread soggy, and makes it messier. Add raisins to make it hardier.

3. Put bread together. Eat

Climbing with Chris last weekend was really nice. I finally felt like the local, showing him the routes & problems without a guide book. Here’s a couple shots of Chris cruising Ament’s Face (V4) on the Gill boulder.

Andrew - Have a few questions about this whole PB&J thing…. so do you put the PB on the same piece of bread as the J or do you seperate and put the PB on one piece and the J on the other? Do you have to use 2 peices of bread? Another question, do you put PB and the J both facing inwards towards the center of the sandwhich or do you face them outwards, AWAY from the center of the sandwhich to create a delightfully finger lickingly awesome eating experience? One last question: assuming that you put both the PB and the J towards the center of the sandwhich and on different peices of bread(who does that anyway?) does the matter in which you line up the two pieces of bread affect the taste of the overall sandwhich? Please get back to me as soon as possible because I am quite interested in creating one of the PB&J experiences.February 10, 2009 – 10:48 am

Amy Ross - Interestingly enough, my 2nd graders are learning about writing and following directions. Just yesterday (and I'm not kidding) we did a step-by-step procedure on how to make a PB & J!
Turns out, Andrew, that you actually face the PB&J TOGETHER. Yeah, I know, confusing.
A few 2nd graders tried the opposing method and it got pretty messy. But hey, if that's what you like…
I am a little concerned about the newly learned sandwich-making skills of our future PB&J makers though. That Blood sandwich? Yeah, I made that.
Here's to the teachers of America and the great American PB&J!February 11, 2009 – 1:48 pm

Gargantuan Vermillion - That’s crazy, because after reading Eli’s instructions, I had applied PB to one side of a piece of bread, and then applied the J to the OTHER side of the same piece. As you might imagine, it made for a messy dining experience.

Black box word: syopigh — How the Japanese say goodbye to their swine.February 14, 2009 – 12:28 pm

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Try Hard

Muscle man Doug Lintz could probably climb 5.11+ with me on his back… If he tried a little harder. Doug always tells me “I should have, could have sent, but I hung” Some days I’m guilty of this too. There are plenty of reasons to try harder: View full post »

Doug - It’s not often that I “take” because I’m not mentally strong enough; in fact I’ve suffered almost all of my climbing related injuries when I’ve pushed myself beyond what I thought was achievable. Despite my occassional bouts of self-pessimism I do enjoy trying hard.

On that note Eli, I like climbing with you because you always believe even if I don’t.February 9, 2009 – 9:57 am

Eli Powell - Doug,
Thanks for the note. I know you try hard, I was just using you to illustrate a point.

A lot of times, a voice inside me says “let go”, and I wanted to underscore that I need to move beyond that.

Also, I know you’re injured now, so I don’t want to give you too hard a time.

EliFebruary 9, 2009 – 10:31 am

Doug - It’s all good my friend…I understand your point. Keep up the good work on your climbing and this blog, I really enjoy reading it.February 9, 2009 – 2:18 pm

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Brain Games

For my first post (it’s me Andrew Kuklinski) I want to talk about a type of training that most climbers tend to ignore, mental training. I read this book “The Rock Warriors Way: Mental Training for Climbers” by Arno Ilgner.View full post »

Eli Powell - Cool. I’ve been wanting to read this.February 8, 2009 – 10:03 pm

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Rincon Wall

Super strong Chris Rollings was in town this weekend. We went out to Eldo and hit up some moderate gear climbs at Rincon wall and the West Ridge.

Rincon is spanish for corner

After climbing Hand Crack and Terminal Velocity (on TR), we left the West Ridge for Rincon.

It was about this time when we heard sirens and rescue worker hiked by. It turns out a very serious accident occurred right where we were just climbing. A climber fell and pulled two cams out, falling ~30+ feet. The guy was wearing a helmet, but sustained serious injuries, and was helicoptered out. More information here.
This was a sobering reminder that we do a dangerous sport. I wish him a speedy recovery.

Andrew - Accidents are an unfortunate occurance that go along with our sport. Witnessing an accident or being part of a resque always leave their mark on your memory. I hope this climber gets better soon and is back out pulling down soon. Our group of friends / climbers are quite lucky to still have everyone still with us. Stay safe out there everyone!February 8, 2009 – 9:22 pm

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Boulder’s New Gym

Boulder, CO will soon be home to a new climbing gym- Movement. This gym happens to be a block from my girlfriends home, so I went to check it out the other day. The building is progressing, steel is up, and the “skin” is being put on.

In a recent interview, Mike Moelter discussed the concept, construction, etc. He touted the environmentally friendly aspects of the building. From the site visit, it seems the building is being constructed with a R13 insulated exterior- which isn’t that great. I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt and assume the walls will have interior insulation too.

The most interesting and innovative idea of the building is that they’re building into the ground to make the climbing wall higher with out violating the Boulder building code height restrictions.

Marco Costa - Excellent blog!February 7, 2009 – 9:32 pm

Eli Powell - Thanks man.February 8, 2009 – 9:22 pm

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