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Eldo in a Blizzard

Here’s a photo journal from a fall/ winter day in Eldorado Canyon…hiking across the bridge in Eldorado state pack, coloradowater drops on foilage in ColoradoFall foilage blowing in the wind in Eldorado state parkClimber looking up at rock in Eldoradorock climbing equipment laying on rockClimber praparing for rock climb in ColoradoClimber sitting around before rock climbputting climbing shoes on in Eldorado State ParkTraditional rock climbing in ColoradoClimber in Eldorado state parkstorm moving in during rock climbingClimbingbelaying in the snow in ColoradoPine trees covered in snowTree growing out of rockstaring up at the snow after rock climbinghiking out of Eldorado in the snowhiking across the bridge in Eldorado state pack, colorado

There is always an excuse.  I’m too busy, or lazy, or the weather is bad, etc.  This day was awesome for me because it made me feel like I was taking back my life from all the excuses.  Rock on… ~Eli

Emily - Can’t tell you how nostalgic your photos made me feel. I miss the mountains and rock climbing and eldo. Thanks for the post and it seemed like a fantastic day! What beautiful, fluffy snow flakes!!!! What was the temperature?November 12, 2012 – 6:42 am

Eli - Hey Emily,
Glad you enjoyed it. I really tried to take this photos from a first hand perspective, like you’re the one there. It was pretty nice (maybe 50 degrees) at the start of the day, and got progressively colder. When we hiked out, my hands were going numb in the open air.November 12, 2012 – 7:57 am

Adam Scheer - Thanks, Eli.

I felt like I was there. Man would I love to spend a couple sunny winter hours climbing the roof routes. Seeing the rock there brings back so many memories. I know exactly how it feels, smells, sounds being right there.

I’m glad you guys stuck it out for a good day.November 12, 2012 – 11:00 pm

Andrew - Wish I could have been there with you guys. The snow looks like it was fun to experience! Eli, it’s good to hear things are falling into place.

By the way, I like the new look on Climbinghouse.November 12, 2012 – 11:08 pm

Kate - Great post- the pictures are fantastic! I love the progression. Rock on!November 12, 2012 – 11:30 pm

Eli - Thanks for all the kind words guys. Talk to you soon. ~ENovember 13, 2012 – 7:05 am

ryan - Beautiful. Makes me miss this place. And these people.November 13, 2012 – 8:18 am

Kris Scheer - Loved the story , great pictures…. no dialogue required.November 13, 2012 – 9:40 pm

Lizzle - I like the new format, Eli! One thing though that I miss about the old format is knowing who is the writer of the post at the top. Could you add that back in?

Great photos & I’m glad to hear you’re not letting those excuses run your life!November 15, 2012 – 9:55 pm

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From Grotto Basalt to Valley Granite

Fall has arrived in California. Almost overnight the air became sharp and the leaves crisp. Usually this is the perfect time for a Yosemite trek, but rain in The Valley sent us to plan B. Fortunately, the Grotto basalt is great for a day away from Yosemite and stays dry with the protection of a massive overhang.

Kris making it look easy on AC Devil Dog (5.10d).

Having climbed there several sessions now, I enjoyed the day more for introducing Andrew and Kris to some of the truly unique climbs.
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Lucas - Glad to see some images from the Grotto. Haven’t been there in years! Quite the Gem.October 22, 2012 – 2:43 pm

Tyler - Sounds awesome, I hope I can make it out to visit soon!October 22, 2012 – 7:59 pm

Kate - Looks like a great time! You’re becoming quite the photographer, Adam!November 12, 2012 – 11:33 pm

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The (Half) Rostrum

I’m a big believer in getting to know an area before “going big.” Every climbing destination requires a different set of skills, strengths and techniques. I’ve been lucky over the years to have spent extended periods of time climbing Moab’s desert sandstone, Shelf’s techy limestone, Boulder Canyon’s featured granite and Eldo’s cryptic conglomerate sandstone. Each area has forced me to develop as a climber and has given me an expanded toolbox when I encounter a new place. But the pure physicality of Yosemite climbing can only be matched in my experience by Vedauwoo’s rough splitters. You don’t learn how to climb in Yosemite in a day, or a week or even a month. But I’m getting more used to the area and felt more willing to test the waters last weekend when Andrew arrived for ten days in The Valley.

Chris cruising pitch 3 of The Rostrum

The first pitch we chose was a perfect metaphor for our frame of mind. At Arch Rock, an incredible splitter has been dubbed ‘Midterm.’ The name originates from the test a climber must pass to arrive at the anchors. Midterm starts on slick thin fingers protectable only with nuts or C3s before yielding a miracle hand jam. The climber is then immediately thrown into thin hands that gradually widen to fists. The inverse taper continues until an offwidth crux must be passed to enter the squeeze chimney. Get your game face on, because the fight has just entered determination phase. A #5 can be bumped up the depths of the crack as the climber navigates 20 feet of flared, polished chimney. It’s brutal if not experienced in the particulars of squeeze chimney climbing. Every inch is a mile. You can’t easily fall out, but it’s even harder to move up and sending boils down to finding clever tricks to ensure the brute force and exertion put toward inching up is not given back by sliding downward in exhaustion.
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Eli Powell - AwesomeOctober 9, 2012 – 12:51 pm

emily - What Eli said :)October 9, 2012 – 7:13 pm

Tyler - I’ll come do the Rostrum with you – when will be the next good season, so I can be in spectacular, glorious enough shape that you can guide me up? May, June? I’ll start saving.October 9, 2012 – 9:34 pm

Adam Scheer - Thanks, guys.

May is beautiful in the Valley. April can be hit or miss depending on snowfall. Early June would probably be good as well. Get yourself in shape. I recommend 24 oz PBRs. They weigh quite a bit.October 9, 2012 – 10:48 pm

Andrew - Amazing experiences, these climbs as well as the entire trip! I need to get back and get the Rostrum. How does May sound? Plan on a Nebraska style attack!!October 15, 2012 – 4:29 pm

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The Steps from Monteray Bay to Tahoe

Reconnecting with longtime friends is good for the soul. It’s a simple truth that lost among the peaks and valleys of life are so many of those whom we once held close. This has often caused me great sadness and guilt as I witness bonds that were once strong become brittle with neglect, finally snapping when that last wave of disparity crashes in, sending us drifting to different oceans. Yet found among the cold shoreline tombstones are the footprints that never seem to fade away, those pieces, given to us by each other, woven into our personalities. The convoluted tracks could never be repeated, traveling in hops, skips, jumps and spirals that lead nowhere in particular, except for where we are now.

Sunset at an isolated beach near Big Sur.

But every now and then, a set of tracks stands out among the chaos and a clarity can be traced through a great history. It is such with those in our lives that know us not for chapters of moments, but for novels of time. The older we get, the more important these people become because it gets harder to establish the deep rapport that results from travelling many peaks and valleys together.
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Kimberly - great post Adam!October 2, 2012 – 11:10 am

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Lover’s Leap

“You’ll be home again and I’ll be home again.” – Daniel Johns

Imagine clouds parting as the hand of God reaches through wielding a heavenly butter knife. El Capitan is no match and He spreads the colossal monolith like granite jelly over a toasty forest like a thick dollop of whip cream you smother over a hot slice of apple pie. The earth shakes beneath your feet while you marvel at the creation of Lover’s Leap, the Big Man’s breakfast. Fortunately, before the massive mastication a profound double rainbow distracts his attention for a couple eons, compelling all the creatures of the South Lake Tahoe forest to burst into a perfect rendition of Journey’s “Don’t Stop Believin.” You then wake up and realize you’ve hot boxed yourself into hallucinations and swear that chocolate-covered gummy worms and Budweiser will never again be midnight dinner.

Hamish finding a relieving hand jam on the tenuous Tombstone Terror (5.10c)

But one thing in your dream was real. And today you’re going to climb it.
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Tyler - Great post – good to see you out at the Leap. I wish that I’d not been nursing a busted tendon back when I was there. Gotta love the drive, I’ve been a bit frustrated with a handful of things lately – climbing, work, etc, and I like the push to make changes. If not now, when?September 27, 2012 – 4:58 pm

Kris Scheer - Adam – Great Post … thanks for sharing your journey.September 27, 2012 – 7:58 pm

Eli Powell - Awesome opening photo!September 28, 2012 – 8:48 am

Andrew - It’s good to hear the clouds are clearing and letting the sunshine in again. Something has become very obvious to me is that for every down day / year, every hard lesson, and every painful experience there will always, ALWAYS, be multiple joyous moments, “that was easy” situations, and times that you are so excited about life you feel you want to explode and scream “HELL YES” to over shadow all else. I know where you are and all I can say is keep climbing because its the best the best medicine. :-) In 5 days, we will both be getting a much needed does of medicine. Can’t wait to see you!!October 1, 2012 – 10:58 pm

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Stripped Down on the Culp-Bossier

There’s a strange beep popping into my head, the haze of the night before cut by the sound of an incoming text message.

“You up? Be there in five.”


Oh. Crap.

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Kate - Love it! Way to pull through! Sounds like an amazing adventure!September 24, 2012 – 10:10 am

Adam Scheer - Amazing photos and story, Tyler. That was truly a 5.9 for the 5.11 climber!

The route finding you describe reminds me distinctly of the very first pitch Eli and I took on when visiting Spearhead. Due to a massive snow pile guarding the traditional first pitch, we scoped out a line to the left that traversed into the normal route. That first pitch was quite a wake up call and ended up being the technical and mental crux of the route at 5.10 R. We then proceeded to climb another 6 pitches that I haven’t seen documented anywhere before joining a standard finish to the summit. The only sign anybody had been on part of the line before was an ancient cam buried deep in a random crack.

Nothing like a little alpine excitement to make even a place like Eldo more manageable!September 25, 2012 – 11:52 pm

Tyler - Thanks Kate! Adam, it wasn’t all that bad, climbing-wise, just kind of creepy, super runout 5.8 – I was just in a strange spot, hungover, tired, and pretty irritated with myself. It’s strange how putting yourself out there while climbing can either push away all the stuff that’s going on in your life, or bring it into full focus. I think the part I take away is that a couple of years ago, I would’ve been in trouble in the same spot. This time around I had enough experience to put that stuff back out of my head, and keep cool to the anchor. Glad I’d climbed Hair City with you, because that pitch was of similar difficulty, and a bit more runout.September 27, 2012 – 5:17 pm

Zeraincurexia - Good news thanksFebruary 20, 2013 – 3:24 am

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